Chef's Tasting | Um Segredo Supper Club, ii

I had the happy fortune of attending another one of Chef David Santos' Um Segredo Supper Club dinners this past week. When I found out he would be doing another installment of dinners in April, I was crossing my fingers, hoping I'd be able to make one, especially if any of the given menus were especially enticing. I was in luck -- one of the dinners was a sea urchin/uni-focused six-course tasting. Lisa and I are HUGE, HUGE, HUGE uni enthusiasts (at times, it is a borderline, serious addiction if you ask me), so I immediately thought of asking her to accompany me. Now the only caveat was that it also happened to fall on the date of Marcus and I's two-year anniversary. We had already planned on going to Philadelphia the following day to celebrate at Stephen Starr's Barclay Prime, but I still wanted to make sure it was all cool with him. I wasn't sure if he planned on doing anything more on our actual anniversary, and knowing that he's not a big fan of uni, I wanted to give him the option of whether or not we should go ahead and make reservations. I wouldn't have made it such a big deal if it weren't for the rarity of such a tasting menu -- I mean, it's sea urchin for heaven's sake! After explaining what the dinner would entail and seeing how much it would mean for us to go, Marcus, without hesitation, simply answered, "Of course we can go with Lisa!" Another reason why I love him so much -- always a trooper! :) I was curious to find out what Marcus would think about sea urchin by the end of this dinner anyhow -- i.e., would he still think it to be overrated or would he completely switch sides and fall in love with it as Lisa and I have? Only time could tell!

Not more than a minute after, I was texting Lisa, explaining to her the gravity of the situation -- after all, we were dealing with our beloved infatuation with uni -- and ultimately, her answer: "You had me at uni!" Now there is another comical part of this situation. The next Table Conviviale dinner that Lisa and I planned on doing once again in my kitchen will be centered around uni, and the date we selected two months ago to finally execute our "study" of the golden ingredient would be the following weekend. Yup, overdose of uni was imminent, but do you think that stopped us? Hell no! :P

Chef Santos decided to create menu for this tasting because of a special request he received from one of his Um Segredo guests. It was a menu that he had been thinking about, but she was the one who finally sealed the deal -- she left her scarf at an Um Segredo dinner back in February, asking him to bring her scarf to a City Grit event she planned to go to. Then, he forgot to bring her scarf, and by this point, he just had to do an uni dinner. Dubbing it the "Forgot Your Scarf" dinner, this uni-focused tasting was intended to be both fun and challenging due to its obscurity as a shellfish.

Communal dining table at Um Segredo.

Since Um Segredo is essentially BYOB, Lisa and I each contributed a bottle from our growing vault of wines -- hers was a fancy bottle of Champagne by Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin given to her from her former workplace and mine a medium-dry riesling I found at Downtown Cellars. Needless to say, both bottles were demolished by the end of the night! :P

{1} Homemade bread was served with an interesting alternative to the usual olive oil and butter -- {2} Portuguese butter made using lard, garlic, black pepper, and artichokes. Man, this was so awesome -- dripping in buttery richness with the biting deliciousness from the garlic and the thickness from the puréed artichokes. Definitely need to figure out how to make this amazing Portuguese butter one of these days -- I really could have eaten the whole basket of bread by slathering this stuff all over it and nomming away. Luckily, I have a little self control! :P

The first course was uni from Santa Barbara with truffles, grapefruits, and chicharon (i.e., fried pork rinds). The thing about Santa Barbara uni is that you can never go wrong with it. It is always almost plump, glowing like golden saffron, and richly buttery -- just as it was here: simply heavenly. With the interesting combination of fried pork rinds and grapefruit, the amuse-bouche had a little tartness paired with crunchiness from the savory fried pork rind. The unlikely union of these ingredients made for a wonderful introduction of what was to come.

Prior to the next course, the three of us ventured to the kitchen to check out what Chef Santos was up to. We also had some questions about where he recommends non-chef folk like us can get our hands on some quality uni. As expected, he gets his from a supplier with whom he's had a long relationship throughout his career as a chef in the city. Luckily, he was able to point us to some places where we can find some for our study of the mysterious echinoderm (will reveal more in a future post).

So while we were chatting up Chef Santos, {1,2,3} he was plating the next course with much precision and alacrity. One thing I really like about his dinners is the wide array of noteworthy dishware used throughout the meal. These glossy, squared glass plates were no exception. Being in such close proximity to the trays of uni that Chef Santos was using to prep and plate the upcoming courses was such a tease -- we were very much tempted to just swipe a tray and eat it straight!

The second course was a tartare of marinated branzino with an uni emulsion (of celery, I believe), artichokes, and fried shallots, topped with a few pieces of Maine sea urchin and some yuzu granita. While Lisa thought this course was just okay, I really enjoyed it. What surprised me most was how much Marcus enjoyed it -- I could see a conversion on the horizon! :P Anyways, the branzino absorbed the intense flavors of the creamy uni emulsion as well as the tart and chilly yuzu granita. The emulsion was so good that we all could not let it go to waste -- we used bread to soak up even last drop of the wondrous foamy butter. Even our neighboring diners at the table couldn't resist! Overall, a great spring/summery starter!

The next course was uni chawanmushi with crab, tomato marmalade, and arugula pistou topped with a couple lobes of Santa Barbara uni. A traditional chawanmushi is a Japanese, appetizer-intended egg custard dish served in a tea bowl, so Chef Santos' take on it was an uni custard with very untraditional toppings served in a mason jar. While the presentation was very well done, I felt the execution was a little off when it came down to the combination of flavors created by the ingredient choice. The custard itself was really good, as was the crab and the sea urchin lobes. However, the marmalade (which had a cool kick) paired with the pistou (arugula here instead of the traditional basil) made for an unpleasant combination on my palate. While the marmalade of tomato added another dimension of texture and savory sweetness, the pistou of arugula was really bitter, which pretty much overpowered the rest of the ingredients. This was probably my least favorite dish of the evening.

The fourth course was a wonderful saving grace from the uni chawanmushi. It was an uni and shrimp risotto with fava beans, sugar snap peas, and carrot foam. What I love about seafood risottos is that there is no cheese -- a weird proclivity, I know, but alas the palate wants what the palate wants. :P The uni melted right into the risotto, adding to the light and creamy carrot foam on which the grains of al dente arborio grains floated fluffily. To contrast the creaminess, the fava beans and crisp snap peas were crisp and snappy and gave some pop of color to the risotto as well. The chunks of shrimp were juicy, complementing the undertones of uni within the risotto. Ahhh, so good! Definitely my favorite course of the night -- it was the ideal risotto, with the giddy bonus of uni!

Last of the main courses was Chef Santos' uni-inspired "surf and turf" -- Iowa Farms pork loin with soba, shredded shiso, mushrooms, watercress (I think?) and uni butter (on the side and drizzled atop). The "surf" part of this dish was well done -- that uni butter was to die for! The soba and veggies mixed really beautifully with the uni butter, but unfortunately, while the pork was unbelievably flavorful, I am sad to report that it was a little overcooked. I wish I could have enjoyed this dish a lot more than I already had. It was just really chewy, making it hard to eat with the rest of the dish's components.

When it comes to satisfying one's sweet tooth, Chef Santos never disappoints. The last course of the evening was a deconstructed lemon meringue pie. A marshmallow seared lightly for a smoky flavor topped the ice cream over crushed graham crackers with a lemon sauce on the side. It was certainly a lot lighter on the stomach than a traditional lemon meringue pie (thick crust, heavy filling, and all), considering we had five courses preceding this one. The taste was refreshing and light, with just a little sweet-and-tartness from the lemon to conclude an awesome uni-driven dinner.

Findings: Once again, Chef David Santos has proven that he can orchestrate one hell of a themed tasting menu (first veggies, now the dark and spiny echinoderm). While there were a couple misses during our meal, we still enjoyed the experience very much. Not very often do you get to convene with other fellow uni enthusiasts and go on about how amazing uni roe really is, to the point where the coming together nearly becomes a support group. I particularly admired the risks that Chef Santos took with the menu, especially with the atypical pairings/execution, e.g., chicarones, chawanmushi, risotto, and uni butter. While I enjoy a good donburi of uni as much as the next fanatic, it was refreshing to see new ways to enjoy the luscious lobes of gold where hope is not lost for creating newly curated courses. Perhaps my only wish was that there was more uni (though I think I'd feel that way with any amount of uni at hand :P), and I thought the $75 price tag on the menu was a steal of a price. Um Segredo could have undoubtedly a little charged more (I assure you that the demand would've remained the same, if not rocketed even more) and thus would have been able to lop on some more pieces for its guests to enjoy.

Additionally, it was fun to chat with Chef Santos as usual and to meet his cooking buddy, Chef Andrew Kraft -- picking their brains about where to find the best uni proved to be quite helpful. Lisa and I certainly found this dinner to be a nice prelude to our study of uni next weekend for our second installment of Table Convivale! Uni overdosage, here we come!

Last thought here: Marcus and I seem to always have luck on the actual date of our anniversary -- we always find some kind of cool dinner to go to! Last year's was Chef David Bouley's opening of his newest restaurant, Brushstroke, and this year we get to spend it with a lot of uni! Not sure how we will top this once again next year, but I have faith that something wonderful will come along. Thanks to Marcus and Lisa for accompanying me -- again, always a treat to go out with my "BF" and "BFF"! :D

Looking forward to another menu exploration with Chef Santos at Um Segredo again very soon!

Price point: $75 cash donation, plus gratuity for service; BYOB.

--April 20, 2012

Um Segredo Supper Club

http://www.umsegredony.com
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Chef's Tasting | Um Segredo Supper Club, i

I had the fortunate pleasure of attending a dinner hosted by Chef David Santos at his humble abode on Roosevelt Island (I mean, how cool is that?! We're practically neighbors!). Alice invited me to tag along for the dinner featuring a "Tasting of Vegetables," and I was happy to oblige, with Linda as my honored dining companion for the night. Though, I should stipulate one tidbit about this said dinner --- shhh, it's kind of a secret!

Inspired by his Portuguese heritage, Um Segredo Supper Club was created by Chef Santos to host a series of "secret" dining events (in fact, um segredo actually translates to mean "secret" in Portuguese) curated/created/prepared by Chef Santos in his very own kitchen. The first installment took place during late November 2011, when I had initially heard about it through Alice and from various sources of foodie news. Now, February 2012 being Um Segredo's second installment, Chef Santos has hosted another series of dinners with a distinct menu each weekend throughout the month. The lucky attendees can bring their own wine (with a particular emphasis on just bringing what you like to drink) and a $75 cash donation for the dinner -- exactly what what we did -- to the designated "secret" venue. With each dinner capped between 8 to 12 guests, it is quite the intimate dining experience.

Having previously worked at the famed kitchens of Chef David Bouley (Bouley) and Chef Thomas Keller (Per Se) and more currently at 5 & Diamond as well as Hotel Griffou, Chef Santos took everything he learned from these various establishments and decided to venture off on his own, taking his cooking in his own direction.


The kitchen at Chef Santos's apartment.


One of two side prepping tables in the kitchen with ingredients and a deep fryer.

Homemade bread that was totally addicting. Dying for some more even now!

After getting settled in and enjoying some pinot noir (courtesy of Um Segredo's encouraging BYOB), everyone took seats at the communal dining table set for twelve in the living room. There were some brief introductions among the guests -- in fact, Linda and I met another couple who lives on RI plus another woman who had lived there for twenty something years before moving into Manhattan with her family! Chef Santos gave a brief introduction about himself and Um Segredo, mentioning that there had been many requests for a "vegetarian" menu since the supper club's first installment, resulting in this dinner featuring a "tasting of vegetables." Alice took an informal poll from all the guests, asking if there were any vegetarians in the room. Surprisingly enough, we were all omnivores with the exception of one pescatarian. Interesting, indeed -- just goes to show you the elusive, yet compelling, power of vegetables :P! Chef Santos then left us to converse amongst ourselves and to munch on some bread while he began his cooking for the night. A short while after, the first course was served.

The first course from the "Tasting of Vegetables" was a mushroom carpaccio with porcini mushrooms, shaved Parmesan cheese, and arugula. The carpaccio was made using a purée of mushrooms mixed with agar agar, creating a gelatinous (yet still vegan/vegetarian) block which he then thinly sliced and plated. It was lovely starting course, light and fresh, as it eased us into the courses ahead -- the sheer "thinking outside of the box" to turn a raw vegetable somehow into a carpaccio (typically thin slices of raw beef or fish served with a sauce) was a promising harbinger of what was to come. This could definitely compete with a protein-driven carpaccio in a snap.

The next course was a "winter salad" with grilled endive, kumquat purée, and kale tempura. Chef Santos introduced this course as a stark contrast to the expectant salad, whereby its ingredients would be served raw and cold. As the dinner took place in the middle of the winter season, he thought it'd be fun to experiment with a "warm" salad -- in the same way you would have warm soups in the colder months and chilled soups in the summer months. With the added bonus of a beautiful presentation, this salad certainly warmed me up. However, I still haven't blossomed into liking bitter greens like kale and endives, even though my mom is convinced that I'll grow into it eventually :P. So while the tempura added some softness, and the kumquat purée some sweet tartness, to the otherwise harsher taste tones of kale, it just wasn't my cup of tea. Still, beautifully done, and props to the chef for turning some bitter vegetables into an elegant art.

Now this next course was more my style -- smoked tomato soup served alongside aged cheddar grilled cheese. The tomatoes themselves were individually smoked before becoming puréed into a creamy, well-blended flavor of soup -- the kind that reminds you of those days, after trekking home from school through the elements (most likely snow and rain), to find a warm bowl of densely blended, hearty tomatoes waiting to be spooned alongside triangularly cut just-pressed grilled cheese sandwiches. Chef Santos's tomato soup had so much depth in flavor -- the smoked tomatoes really did a number for it overall -- maturing much from the simpler, childhood days of Campbell's cans. Oh, and the aged cheddar grilled cheese made for the perfect accompanying "starch" for ratio eating, especially with something as heavy and concentrated as a tomato soup. The cheddar had a good medium between mild and sharp working well with each dip into the soup. At this point of our dinner, you can definitely feel the dishes progressing in size, portion, and weight. I think after having this, it totally slipped my mind that everything on the menu for the night was all vegetarian. It's funny how a skilled sleight of hand can transform and otherwise "lacking" meal (i.e., in protein and meatiness) into a meal that has an equitable "fillingness" as you would get with a non-vegetarian course.

View of the communal dining table after finishing the third course.

Following the smoked tomato soup and aged cheddar grilled cheese was a poached egg and caramelized onion cassoulet with scallions and beans. Traditionally a French-style stew of meat and beans, this unconventional cassoulet was a risk taker, with a single, delicately poached egg to compensate and to unwittingly demonstrate that, with the right execution, the absence of meat need not be so pervasive as to ruin a meal but to enhance it. The poached egg was hands down my favorite part of the course. The beans were a just a bit undercooked for me, but the stew's base certainly made up for that. I even used some pieces of bread to wipe clean the bowl!

The last course before dessert was tortellini with celery root, truffle foam, and shaved black truffles. Chef Santos urged that we eat this immediately, as the aromatics and flavor dissipate rather quickly. The truffle foam and aroma from the shaved truffles did wonders for the tortellini, was it added that layer of sating fullness. While I felt the pasta was slightly under al dente for me,the tortellini had strings of celery root tucked inside, giving the dish a soft and subtle crunch (in texture, not decibels, haha).

A peek of Chef Santos plating the last course of the night. My only regret of the night was not spending some time with the chef in the kitchen -- I got so incredibly chef-struck that I was mostly speechless until I was able to garner some cohesive sentences at the end of the night to thank Chef Santos for a wonderful meal. I know better for next time -- definitely going to do lots of observing!


To conclude, Chef Santos presented us with a deconstructed pecan pie with a broken brown butter crust, toasted pecans, a scoop of vanilla gelato, and generous dollop of molasses (if I recall correctly). The crust was light yet crunchy -- like thin, freshly made graham crackers -- and exuded that feeling of utter delight when you devour a dessert that really gets your sweet tooth. What I liked about this dessert was that there was nothing complicated about it. In essence, it was truly pecan pie in taste -- just not served as the typical pie sliver-wedge. Going in the same way of the smoked tomato soup and aged cheddar grilled cheese, this is another one of those comfort foods that will always be welcomed in my stomach. I hope Chef Santos makes this again for another dinner.

Findings: The composition of Chef David Santos's dishes were, as simple as I could put it, poetic. The ingredients, once raw and lone, are no longer kept to themselves -- they are chatting up the other plated ingredients forming meaningful conversations, and for us, a precise and deliberate delivery of dulcet flavors. Perhaps it is because he's worked in the kitchen of Chef Thomas Keller and garnered the signature finesse behind his cuisine into his own culinary style, but you can only go so far with learning finesse. As such, talent must be part of the equation here -- he is undoubtedly one talented chef. The progression of the meal was gradual, never peaking too early nor too late. What's more is that he did this pretty effortlessly with only vegetarian ingredients. After the first two courses, it

Additionally, not only does he know how to cook and host one hell of a dinner party, but he is easy to talk to, extremely knowledgeable, comical, and very humble. The conversations we had with him were never brushed off -- his enthusiasm for cooking and all else that is related to it made for an enriching experience, via your palate and your noggin. There were several questions going around that night, and not for one second, was he indifferent or any less animated or lively. In fact, he welcomed it. Those are the best chefs to be around.

Who knew I'd ever be able to say that I can stroll right down the block and around the corner to experience such a four-star restaurant-caliber supper club that was prepared in a city-sized kitchen. So Um Segredo -- watch out! You'll be certainly seeing more me at upcoming dinners -- your menu themes never cease to impress!

Price point: $75 cash donation, plus gratuity for service; BYOB.

--February 17, 2012

Um Segredo Supper Club

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Um-Segredo

e-mail umsegredo12@gmail.com for further inquiries

Dinner | Bohemian

A couple months ago, Lisa and I were trying to figure out where we'd have our annual birthday dinner (just the two of us, as always) this year, throwing around possibly attempting to get a pair of coveted seats at the Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare or venturing to the Dining Room of The Modern adjacent to the Museum of Modern Art. After several futile attempts to call the Chef's Table on a few Monday mornings and our desire for something original and unexperienced by either one of us, I remembered something about a "secret" Japanese restaurant in the city somewhere that we could consider. I have my former co-worker, Christine, to thank for telling me about that very restaurant -- Bohemian, a speakeasy-esque (i.e., members only or by "invite") restaurant/sushi bar over in NoHo. She mentioned it in passing that a friend of hers had been trying to figure out how to get a reservation, as the restaurant has a "secret" telephone number which you'd have to get by word of mouth. Somehow, Christine's friend discovered the number to score a reservation and subsequently had a great dining experience there. With that, I knew I had my in!

After generously getting the number from Christine, I called a month before the intended reservation date (per Bohemian's policy) for a later dinner reservation and was greeted with a very friendly hostess. Once the reservation was finalized, the hostess wasn't ready to let me go just yet. She subtly asked how I heard about them (aka, how did I get the number), so I just said the name of Christine's friend. The hostess happily thanked me and ended the call. Quite the elusive dining establishment, for sure. I also later found out via the restaurant's website that you can try e-mailing them at ny-info@playearth.jp with a brief introduction of yourself. This may result in your favor with the restaurant inviting you over, bypassing the need for the " secret" number or becoming a member.

Bohemian is the sister of a bar found in the district of Nishiazabu in Tokyo. Housed in a former space that belonged to Andy Warhol (thus from where the restaurant's name is derived as the artist frequently spent his time among such eclectic folk), {1} the entrance to the restaurant is located behind warehouse door, followed by {2} a long corridor, adjacent to a Japanese butcher shop, Japan Premium Beef, Inc., leading to a glass door that can only be opened by pressing the chime and confirming you have a reservation.


Once we were confirmed to enter, we were lead into a space resembling a generously sized studio apartment. With four tables at the center, two banquettes off to the side, and six seats at the bar, Bohemian was pretty roomy considering the intimate size of the space. It was cozy enough to feel warmed and welcome, but it was spaced enough to be able to carry on personal conversations without the interruptions from the other tables.

In the rear of the restaurant was a peaceful little garden -- very much of Japanese bonzai influence.

{1} We had these bold colored "scarfy" napkins, which {2} Lisa is showing off here -- an outlined cartoon dragon.

The cocktail menu had a trove of concoctions from which to choose. To start off, our dinner began with {1} glass of cava (Spanish sparkling wine) for me and {2} a lavender-vanilla infused cocktail for Lisa, as recommended by our waitress. During a future visit back to Bohemian, I would love to explore the rest of the list!

Initially, Lisa and I were going to do the tasting menu which consists of six courses (five savory, one sweet), but since the menu would require participation of the entire table, we surmised that it would be best to just select the top 6-7 seven dishes (menu items are mostly small plates that are meant to be shared anyhow) that stood out to us, where the said dishes made us drool simply from their descriptions -- I mean, c'mon, Bohemian basically had us at uni.

The first course was the washu-beef short rib sashimi with citrus, pickled cauliflower, wasabi, and soy sauce. The beef sashimi had a very similar texture as toro (i.e., fatty tuna), where its richness gradually melts in your mouth, resulting in one of the most savory things you'll ever experience on your palate. This unique texture in the slices of beef is a direct result from wagyu cattle's predisposition to intense marbling. These marbling characteristics yield an increased eating quality through a naturally enhanced flavor, tenderness, and juiciness. I haven't had much beef tartare/carpaccio in the past, but this particular dish reminded me of something Lisa and I had at Takashi last year -- the niku-uni had chuck flap served on leaves of seaweed and shiso topped with raw sea urchin. What does that mean, you ask? That this is undoubtedly a definite must-order, too.

Following the washu-beef sashimi was an uni croquette (one for me and another for Lisa) -- a mushroom cream croquette with fresh sea urchin and grated sea salt atop. The croquette had similar characteristics to those fried taro balls found on a dim sum smorgasbord, only with true Japanese flavors. Its interior had a piping hot, rich cream filled with the strong aroma of mushrooms, contrasting against its crunchy and thinly breaded shell. Oh, and the uni to finish? Mmm -- the ultimate finale to this delectable morsel of intense umami, collapsing in waves of delicious flavor with every last bite. Can't pass this one up either -- order, order, order!

This next course was no surprise, mainly because I was dining with Lisa, after all -- an ice bucket of fresh oysters. Just like the two previous courses, this dish also reminded me of something I fell in love with last year upon first slurp -- the happy hour oysters at Hog Island Oyster Bar in San Francisco. It was the first time I had a raw oyster without gagging or experiencing diner's regret. There wasn't any unwelcome sliminess or briny fishiness to overcome -- just refreshing and zesty when drenched in the accompanying hogwash. It was the winning combination of fresh raw oysters and a well-blended hogwash that reeled me in. Since then, I've been on the search for equitable oysters here on the East Coast.


We ordered half dozen of fresh oysters (Montauk Pearls, to be precise) with apple vinegar and fresh key lime. Ever since returning from San Francisco last year, I've been pushing myself to explore the raw bar offerings of certain restaurants I visit. Nothing really has struck my palate at all -- either too fishy, not meaty enough, or just icky texture. The East Coast oysters that I kept sampling were just not up to par with the ones from Hog Island. So my skepticism wasn't unwarranted, but we were out for our birthday, so why not be adventurous and just take another leap of faith? Just as I was about to hold my nose and take one fast gulp before the supposed gagging would commence, the flesh of the Montauk pearl tickled my tongue as it slid down ever so smoothly from a meaty bite. I was happily surprised and content to be won over by these seemingly iridescent bivalves. Plus, the apple vinegar and fresh key lime mixture was a lovely hogwash-like condiment for the oysters -- I would even go as far to dub it to be a Japanese hogwash. A little more biting and zestier than the one at Hog Island, this little wash has a splash of ginger and some other Japanese flavors that give it some character. You would be a fool to pass these up, too -- at least give them a chance like I did. They might even change your mind about these little suckers :P!

After the oysters, we were served the miso black cod with sea urchin gratin and miniature plums. Silky flakes and the charred surface of each piece glided like smoky butter, but the taste and flavor of the fish were mediocre for us. I didn't think there was enough miso, and the temperature of the fish, even for me, was on the undercooked side. However, the sea urchin grain was a saving grace -- a fondue-like twist on the rich and savory roe. Upon initial scoop, the contents were blazing hot, but once it was safe to sneak a taste, it was another explosion of luscious flavor, creamier with the added layer of nearly liquified cheese. For Lisa and me, this course, overall, seemed quite disconnected -- they seemed to be able to stand alone, without needing the other to enhance its flavors and taste. The sea urchin gratin was cheesier than I would have preferred, so I just had a less cheese with my uni. On the other hand, Lisa didn't seem to mind the gratin -- it bridged the unlikely gap between her inner uni fanatic and turophile (i.e., a cheese lover).

We also had Bohemian's washu-beef burger with fried potato, sautéed onion and semi-dried tomato -- each order comes with a set of two sliders. Considering these were "slider-sized" burgers, they were pretty heavy in taste. Made from the same wagyu beef as with the sashimi we had earlier, the marbling effects were certainly evident here, as a result of the burger's concentrated juiciness. The first few bites were great, but after a while, it got to be a little too much -- the meatball patty was deceptively hefty. Perhaps it was the progression of the meal that was starting to catch up to me (the previous courses were already laden with such a guilt-causing savoriness) that did not permit me to enjoy the burger as I had anticipated. It got to be overly gamy and increasingly difficult to eat. Lisa was a trooper -- she finished hers, while I threw in the towel, at only a few measly bites left. The toppings were nice, just not able to salvage the rest of the burger for me.


Relieved the burger wasn't the last course for the night, we were glad to be whisked back to culinary euphoria with the most anticipated dish on the menu -- the ikura caviar and uni rice bowl. This incredible combination of roe -- sea urchin and salmon -- carried on clouds of Japanese rice, against which the tiny explosions of the delicate pearls (with texture of tapioca) could dance alongside with the golden, tongue-like strips of butter. While moderation is always key, it was nice to spoil ourselves (our poor cholesterol!) just a little at Bohemian with a rice bowl covered with these full-bodied, resonating delicacies. No complaints whatsoever -- we were extremely content after finishing every last bite, even scraping the remaining tiny bits and grains of rice gone astray. Even days after our dinner, this meal continues to haunt my dreams -- I'm pretty sure I'm drooling in my sleep for this very reason.

Last of the savory was the foie gras soba. Browned evenly on both sides, the foie gras had that nicely seared exterior that had the subtlest of crunches after first biting into it. Fatty, succulent, and so delectable that I can barely phrase it into words, the foie gras was amazingly delicious -- not surprising, as it is pretty difficult to really botch pan-seared foie gras. What really seized our attention was the soba. It wasn't because the foie gras was forgettable or bland -- it was pretty much the contrary. The seemingly bland noodle was not at all that -- served chilled, the soba noodles had more depth than either one of us had experienced previously. And it wasn't due to an excessive amount of salt, either. The soup base was well-balanced with the essence of the typical dipping sauce with cleanly clear flavors that helped cut through the greasiness of the foie gras. The soba noodles themselves were cooked perfectly, to what would be the Japanese equivalent of the Italian al dente. For a chilled pasta in broth, it was quite filling and full of flavor -- definitely a highlight of dinner at Bohemian.

To end our exquisitely savory dinner was the riesling poached pear sorbet by Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams of Columbus, Ohio. Even as a sorbet, this sorbet was surprisingly rich with the flavor of pear and with "notes of riesling on the finish." I could taste the pears used to craft this beautifully churned confection -- grainy and refreshing in texture, almost like a pure pear purée. I was glad to have chosen a sorbet to conclude this otherwise awesome savory meal (and I mean that in the best way possible). The clean, chilling characteristics of sorbet cleansed our pleasantly saturated palates and helped us digest this filling meal of small plates -- like having a fresh piece of ripened fruit paired with a petite glass of dessert wine.

Findings: Our celebratory dinner at Bohemian was nothing short of fantastic and extraordinary. With the exception of our little ordering faux pas with the washu-beef burgers, we loved every single course was an automatic hit with us. The intimate ambiance were more than enough to allow us to catch up with each other while enjoying the impressive dishes served before us. I would've never imagined there existed this hidden restaurant behind a steel sliding door, that created the dreamiest thoughts as small plates. For us, since we didn't go the tasting course route, it was like a "create-your-own" kaiseki (i.e., traditional multi-course Japanese dinner) which highlighted all of our usual favorites in Japanese cuisine (e.g., uni, wagyu beef, ikura, and more uni!) and some fused influences from other cuisines (e.g., foie gras, sliders, gratin, raw oysters). It was nice to also have these small plates bring me back to old, tucked away food memories with a new and inspiring twist, Japanese style, proving Bohemian's menu to be based in the traditional yet still dances with its own originality. I left in a happy daze, wondering how I could have possibly digested all of that sea urchin roe, ikura, foie gras, and marbled washu-beef without having a minor, if not complete, coronary. I'll be laying off the savory for a while -- at least, just having such a dish or two, instead of all. But I have to admit, I'm already thinking about my next trip to Bohemian, haha. While the service was nothing to write home about, the actual eating experience redeemed it in one fell swoop. So if you're fortunate enough to get invited in (or if you're able to get your hands on the *ahem* "secret" telephone number), don't hesitate. Go!

Price point: $10-22 for each small plate, $7 for dessert.

--February 16, 2012

Bohemian

57 Great Jones Street

New York, NY 10012

http://playearth.jp