Q&A | Francis Lam

Cannot believe 2012 is coming to a close -- it's really incredible how fast the year flew by! With that being said, today I am so very excited to share with you the last Q&A session for the year: Francis Lam of Gourmet, Salon, Gilt Taste, and Top Chef Masters fame. He also happens to be my cousin -- what a funny, small world, right? True story! Not gonna lie -- it can be really intimidating to have such a talented, multi-faceted, award-winning (he has been featured in the past seven annual editions of Best Food Writing anthologies) food writer in the family. A lot to aspire to, that's for sure! But in all seriousness, Francis is one of the coolest and nicest people I know. He really knows quite a bit about writing (studied Creative Writing as an undergrad at the University of Michigan) and all things culinary (graduated at the top of his class during his time at the Culinary Institute of America), and has always given me helpful advice when I struggle with either, whether it is learning to write about food for the first time or figuring out where to get the freshest raw sea urchin in the city. It was through his writing (some of my favorites: "Chasing Perfection", "Getting to Know Him," and "A Restaurant That's Really This Good" from Gourmet; "What Makes Sushi Great?" and "What the Notorious B.I.G.'s Lyrics Taught Me about Food" from Gilt Taste) that truly helped me understand the inevitable relationship formed between food/eating and emotions. I can only hope to be lucky enough one day to have an ounce of Francis's eloquence, especially when it comes to articulating experiences in the world of culinary delights.

I know how unbelievably busy he is, so I really appreciate him for taking the time out of his jam-packed schedule to answer my silly little questions. Please follow him on Twitter (@Francis_Lam) if you don't already do -- your day will be better for it. Thank you so much again to Francis for participating in this month's Q&A! Enjoy!


© Pableaux Johnson

FAVORITE ALL-TIME RESTAURANT
This is, of course, hard to say. There are a few obvious contenders, though -- Alinea, which made giggle and want to cry, involuntarily and simultaneously. WD~50, which taught me, a hotshot culinary school grad, that I don’t know anything about cooking. Yee Li, a Chinatown char siu  and roast duck joint that was reborn, like a phoenix, from the ashes of my childhood favorite, Big Wong. Higgins, in Portland, Oregon, where I had my ass handed to me for five months as a cook, and where I learned a hundred lessons on how good food can be, how much I respect cooking, and how to be as a person in the world.

MOST REGULARLY FREQUENTED SPOTS
I used to be a lot more wide-ranging, but the ravages of old age and a ladyfriend who doesn’t leave our neighborhood to go to work means we eat a disproportionate number of meals in the Frankies Spuntino / Seersucker / bad Thai takeout circuit.

DRINK OF CHOICE
Water, sometimes with bubbles, and sometimes with a lime. Gotta hydrate.

SOMETHING YOU SECRETLY INDULGE
Bad waiters, by still tipping them 20% almost no matter what.

DISH YOU MOST ENJOY PREPARING
If we’re talking about the martyrish pleasures of slaving over a stove so that you can feel good about your generosity and nobility, ratataouille. If we’re talking about testing yourself, omelets. If we’re talking about just making something I really like to eat, pretty much anything braised.

THE HOMEMADE DISH YOU ALWAYS LONG FOR
Beef tongue stewed with five spice! Also, weirdly, I remember bits of canned corn and black pepper in there. It’s been decades since I’ve had it, and I still miss it.

GASTRONOMIC GETAWAY/ADVENTURE OF CHOICE
I love Chicago; I think it’s my favorite restaurant city -- the combination of skilled cooks, willingness to experiment, and awesome hot dogs really gets me amped up.  But really any getaway is a gastronomic getaway -- even if the food isn’t mind-blowing in the obvious sense, it’s still the clearest way I know towards getting to know a place and its people.

CULINARY ICONS
Greg Higgins, Grant Achatz, Michel Bras, Jackie Wong, Soyoung Scanlan, John Willoughby, Ruth Reichl, Fuchsia Dunlop, Elizabeth Andoh

MEAL YOU WISH YOU CAN REPEAT BUT SOMEHOW CANNOT
It’s usually about first times, isn’t it? You can have food as good, company as pleasant, but it’s hard to have the sense of wonder of a first time once you’ve had it. In this case, I’d say my first time at Alinea, my first time cooking with my friend Chuck (who later, I went to cooking school with, and who now owns the great sandwich shop Cutty’s in Boston), my first time eating mediocre vegetarian food at a place called Seva with my friend Matt, where we laughed so hard we literally fell out of the booth.

ABSOLUTE "CAN'T-STANDS"
Mid-grade fake food. I mean, fake fake food, like macaroni and cheese out of a box with orange powder, is real good, right? I can get with that. And of course, real macaroni and cheese is great. But in between? Like Velveeta and shells? Awful.

FAVORITE DESSERT OF ALL TIME
Pineapple upside down cake. Or maybe banana pudding. But I rarely resist a hot fudge brownie sundae. But I’m going to stop with these have-it-all-answers.

FAVORITE COOKBOOK/COFFEE TABLE BOOK
I have to say, actually, The Dean and Deluca Cookbook is probably the most influential cookbook in my life. Is it the best? Almost certainly not. But when I was just learning about food in the 90s, it was the one I happened to have, and page after page taught me new stuff. I mean, if I reread it today, I might disagree with everything in it now, but it  made me realize there was a whole world I knew nothing about out there.

CULINARY WORDS THAT NEVER LOSE THEIR PANACHE
Well, I think all words have their own swagger, so I don’t want to single anything out. But I’ll tell you one word I NEVER use: sinful. Eff people who call food sinful.

Food for Thought | Pablo Neruda

Amo sobre una mesa,
cuando se habla,
la luz de una botella
de inteligente vino.

[I like on the table,
when we’re speaking,
the light of a bottle
of intelligent wine.]

--Pablo Neruda 
from "Oda al vino", 1954-59.

Food for Thought | Paulo Coelho

“Accept what life offers you and try to drink from every cup. All wines should be tasted; some should only be sipped, but with others, drink the whole bottle.”

--Paulo Coelho 
from Brida, 2008.

Q&A | Renee

November's Q&A is coming a wee bit late (my sincerest apologies!) -- with Hurricane Sandy interrupting my daily life and the holiday season keeping me quite occupied, I was finally able to interview this very special person in my life. My cousin Renee is the first "foodie"/"food enthusiast" (or whatever else they call food lovers these days without sounding like a huge snob, a d-bag, or worse, a hipster) I came to know early on in my life as an evolving eater. She was sixteen when I was born, and   being an only child, I have been very lucky to have such a lovely person like her in my life whom I essentially consider my older sister (she is also the only girl in our generation of cousins!). If there's one thing my entire extended family is always doing, it would include all sorts of eating -- varieties including (but not limited to) nomming/munching/snacking/nibbling/etc.I remember whenever our family was deciding where dine out, she would be our resource, her head abundant with the best places-- e.g., which had the crispiest fried calamari, which place cooked up the chunkiest soups (The Kitchen Witch in Monmouth Beach, New Jersey), which place had the most scrumptious filet mignon BLT (The Tea Room at Raven and the Peach in Rumson), which place had the creamiest cheesecakes (Caputo's Pastry Shoppe in Long Branch). Her recommendations were always top-notch and spot-on -- it is clear she has always loved to eat and has honed herself quite the reliable palate.

Just as all little sisters want to be like their big sisters, I think I unwittingly followed in her footsteps when I first discovered how much I enjoy these same things -- morsel marauding across cities and towns in search of the next best thing. Back when she was living in Brooklyn, she was the expert on all the city's hidden gems and new places. Now that she's living in the New Jersey suburbs with her husband and kids, she is now the family's designated culinary navigator for dining out close to home, and I've taken up the role when it comes to New York City. Now we're the dining duo together, and I couldn't ask for a better sister with whom to compare notes. She has always been there for me and offers up the most comforting advice when life get bumpy.

Thanks again to Renee for participating in November's Q&A!

Renee and me at her engagement party, circa 1993.


NAME

Renee

CURRENT CITY

Central Jersey

FAVORITE ALL-TIME RESTAURANT

Le Grill, the restaurant located on a terrace of the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo in Monaco. My husband, kids, and I were dining there while on vacation in the summer, which is when Le Grill's roof slides back, offering direct contact with the sky and one of the most beautiful views on the French Riviera. Our meal also happened to coincide with the international fireworks competition, so that made the experience that much more spectacular and unforgettable. For dessert, it was my family's first time ever having a soufflé -- a chocolate one and a raspberry, actually, and it was simply heavenly.

MOST REGULARLY FREQUENTED SPOT(S)

Central Jersey: Sirena Ristorante, The Tea Room at Raven and the Peach, David Burke Fromagerie, Copper Canyon

DRINK OF CHOICE

cold brew coffee with a splash of milk and a dash of Splenda from Rook Coffee Roasters

SOMETHING YOU SECRETLY INDULGE

Taco Bell, though I guess it's no secret now!

DISH YOU MOST ENJOY PREPARING

My husband is Jewish, so I really enjoy making potato latkes with my kids for Channukah.

THE HOMEMADE DISH YOU ALWAYS LONG FOR

braised oxtail stew (where the meat falls effortlessly off the bone and the sauce is nice and thick) over white rice

GASTRONOMIC GETAWAY/ADVENTURE OF CHOICE

Spain and Paris -- just so many great food adventures to explore there.

CULINARY ICONS

Curtis Stone, Emeril Legassi (before he became overly commercialized!)

MEAL YOU WISH YOU CAN REPEAT BUT SOMEHOW CANNOT

Le Grill (see FAVORITE ALL-TIME RESTAURANT) and a meal in France that I had years ago with my family where we shared a big wheel of raclette cheese.

ABSOLUTE "CAN'T-STANDS"

For most of my life, it was cilantro, but for some inexplicable reason, now I love it!

FAVORITE DESSERT OF ALL TIME

A perfectly crisp and thin sugar and butter crêpe. I spent many years in search of the perfect technique, and I am happy to say I have mastered it!

FAVORITE COOKBOOK/COFFEE TABLE BOOK

The Barefoot Contessa (Ina Garten) series

CULINARY WORDS THAT NEVER LOSE THEIR PANACHE

beurre blanc

FOOD BLOG(S) YOU JUST CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF

Four Tines, of course!

Food For Thought | Gérard Depardieu as Chef Didier

“The poor baby turnips. Nobody likes them, you know? Of course, life is easy if you are a truffle or a shiitake mushroom. But the turnip is to be loved because she’s a self-made woman of vegetables. All the others you can only destroy with cooking. But the turnip, she gets better. So, you see, it’s not how you start but how you finish.”

--Gérard Depardieu as "Chef Didier"
from Last Holiday, 2006.

Q&A | Debra

October's Q&A sesh features Debra, a dear friend of mine from my university days. She's no stranger over here at Four Tines -- she's my fellow noodle nommer as we both can't get enough of ramen, soba, and noodles of all kinds. I've had the pleasure of living with Debra for the last three years at school, and much to my chagrin, she has witnessed pretty much every cooking disaster I've jammed myself in until I was able to finally find my bearings in what used to be the culinary wilderness for me. Debra has been the rational, supportive rock that has gotten me through the thick and thin. She is as dependable and loyal as any awesome individual can be, and I am very lucky to have her as my friend. Thanks again to Debra for participating in this Q&A!

Debra and me at the graduation from our alma mater, May 2009.

NAME

Debra

CURRENT CITY

New York, NY

FAVORITE ALL-TIME RESTAURANT

I'm really bad at picking a single favorite thing...of anything! So I guess I'll have to say that recently I've loved Jin Ramen. Though, if you ask Stefie, I just love ramen – and broth.

MOST REGULARLY FREQUENTED SPOT(S)

Jade Asian in Flushing, Queens for dim sum with my family and various noodle shops in New York City with Stefie.

DRINK OF CHOICE

Water. Being highly alcohol intolerant I can't have even a sip of any kind of alcohol without ill consequences. I avoid most sodas because they're usually just too sweet for me. But if I'm in a whimsical mood I'll drink a Shirley Temple.

SOMETHING YOU SECRETLY INDULGE

Some may consider it gross but... pickle juice. I love pickle brine and I'll regularly pour myself a small glass of it and hold onto the jar long after the pickles are gone just to drink it.

DISH YOU MOST ENJOY PREPARING

I'm more of a baker than a cook. I love baking cookies, although I rarely eat that many myself. Usually by the time I'm done baking I don't even want to look at them anymore. But I'll bring baked goods to family get-togethers and everyone seems to enjoy it. :]

THE HOMEMADE DISH YOU ALWAYS LONG FOR

My mom is... less than fond of cooking. But she does make one awesome thing: macaroni and cheese. I don't eat a lot of cheese/dairy, but I love it. It's gooey with a crispy breadcrumb top and has Spam in it. Yes, Spam. Should this count as a guilty indulgence instead...? Also, Stefie's aunt's stuffing. I remember when she used to bring me back some after Thanksgiving. :D

GASTRONOMIC GETAWAY/ADVENTURE OF CHOICE

If I could go anywhere in the world... probably Japan. I've always had a thing for Japanese culture in general, and being able to eat there would be phenomenal.

CULINARY ICONS

Bourdain makes me laugh constantly. I'm a little sad No Reservations is ending, as it's just so much fun to watch. (Though, he will have that new show on CNN.) I don't really idolize celebrity chefs in general... but I do like watching Morimoto on Iron Chef America (although I used to watch the original Iron Chef too, with the horrible dubbing.) His knife work on fish is just mesmerizing.

I also greatly look up to my grandfather on my father's side. He ran a Chinese restaurant in Far Rockaway years ago that was locally famous for their “rice cups” (roast pork braising sauce with white rice for $0.25). When I was a child and my grandparents lived nearby, we would see them at least once a week or so for dinner. He'd always make an extra cup of gravy from the beef and broccoli for both my brother and I to put over our rice. When we visit them in Florida, he still does it. It's great.

MEAL YOU WISH YOU CAN REPEAT BUT SOMEHOW CANNOT

My step-grandmother passed away this past February, and we all miss her. She was an amazing cook and baker, possibly the best in the family. She would make these amazing pecan rolls in the morning and sourdough bread that I loved. Although my mom and I got some of her starter, it just doesn't taste the same.

ABSOLUTE "CAN'T-STANDS"

Milk because I'm semi-lactose intolerant; eggs (unless they're in fried rice and I can't smell/taste them) smell and taste really bad to me, I don't know why; alcohol because something braised in wine can be a little headache inducing; Hoisin sauce; Jell-o/gelatin; and if I'm being honest this list could go on forever...

FAVORITE DESSERT OF ALL TIME

A few years ago I went on a cruise up the eastern coast of Canada. One night, there was this amazing cappuccino pie for dessert. I felt guilty even eating one, and I debated another yet held myself back. I wish I hadn't. It was just ridiculously good.

And if I can add another... my step-grandmother had this simple recipe for what she called Oreo Delight. It's one package of crushed Oreos, one tub of cool whip, and one gallon of vanilla ice cream. Mix it all together, put in a Pyrex and freeze it. Then you cut it into squares and enjoy the cookies and cream deliciousness.

FAVORITE COOKBOOK/COFFEE TABLE BOOK

I don't really have one. I do like the recipes handed down to me from my mother's mother. They're for various baked goods, as she and my mother were really the ones to turn me onto baking. Her recipe for snickerdoodles is fantastic.

CULINARY WORDS THAT NEVER LOSE THEIR PANACHE

I don't know why, I just love chiffonade. And although it's not technically a “culinary” word – いらっしゃいませ(irrashaimase) is great to hear when you're entering a Japanese restaurant.

FOOD BLOG(S) YOU JUST CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF

I only read one! ;]

Food for Thought | Mark Twain

“To eat is human; to digest, divine.”

--Mark Twain

Q&A | Christine

The first Q&A sesh to welcome the fall season is with Christine, a former colleague of mine during my first bean counting job. We worked on an awesome team together, and we had a blast working with each other. The more we got to know one another, the more we realized we both had a shared love for dining out and trying new foods (including L'Artusi, Kajitsu, Bohemian, and El Almacén as well as Dirt Candy around the corner after attending the eponoymous cookbook launch party together). Not only is Christine a smart cookie, she is also one of the best food enthusiasts to go out with -- she'll try anything once, which makes selecting spots to go out together that much easier. While we spend nearly a third of the year tied to the demands of the bean counting universe, we both make the conscious effort to get away from all that, aka, making time for a decent meal other than company/client-funded takeout and meet up for much-needed cocktails or glasses of wine. I look forward to more gluttonous adventures with Christine, because I do not doubt on bit  that we will eat our way through many amazing things together.

Thanks again to Christine for taking the time and participating in this month's Q&A!


Christine (on the right) with her sisters eating dessert at Serendipity IIIs for the first time.


NAME
Christine

CURRENT CITY
New York, NY

FAVORITE ALL-TIME RESTAURANT
Fine dining: My first ever fine dining experience was at Annisa and I still can’t forget it.
Casual dining: Recently I went to Le Sans Coulette and fell in love with the place. It’s really good french food for a great price, and the appetizer is very interesting. They give you a huge basket of fresh vegetables, bread/pate, and a rack of cured meats to eat to your heart's content -- majority of the reason why it is now my favorite restaurant.

MOST REGULARLY FREQUENTED SPOT(S)
When I’m in the hood/it’s 4 am: Mamouns Falafel, Artichoke, Banh Mi Saigon, 16 Handles, Jimmy Johns
When I'm a cog in the machine: Chopt, Just Salad, Subway, the many corporate  cafeterias of Restaurant Associates

DRINK OF CHOICE
Disaronno (i.e., amaretto) on the rocks -- it makes you look like a cool scotch drinker without actually drinking the stuff (good for those who can't drink scotch). I also enjoy india pale ales (IPAs), moscato, and shots of anything.

SOMETHING YOU SECRETLY INDULGE
Gordita Crunch from Taco Bell, I still remember when they came out with the concept. It's pretty amazing, but for every Gordita I eat, my extremely reputable foodie credibility slowly dwindles away,  thus why it is a (now not so much) secret indulgence.

DISH YOU MOST ENJOY PREPARING
I don't always cook, but when I do, I make banana bread from scratch. My friends say it’s really edible. I'd like to say I have a secret recipe, but it's the third hit you get when you Google. Shhh!

THE HOMEMADE DISH YOU ALWAYS LONG FOR
Taiwanese braised bamboo with rice. My dad tries to make it in the States, but it's always better at my grandfather’s in Taiwan. 

GASTRONOMIC GETAWAY/ADVENTURE OF CHOICE
I love Vietnamese food but have never been to Vietnam, so I would love to explore and try some authentic Viet cuisine. Other delicious getaways include a trip to Taiwan to get reacquainted with its amazing night market junket and a road trip to Maine for a seafood feast with a pit stop at the Ben 'n' Jerry's Ice Cream Factory in Vermont for the real deal (see cookbook response).

CULINARY ICONS
Adam Richmond of Man vs. Food. Every time I watch him, I feel a combination of hunger, jealousy, and repulsion. A vicious cycle I go through every night  from 10-11 PM.

MEAL YOU WISH YOU CAN REPEAT BUT SOMEHOW CANNOT
My dad is the chef of the house. My mom will cook, but only if it's a life or starving-to-death situation. That being said, when I was about 8 years old, she made dinner once when my dad was out of town --  fried rice with ham, peas, eggs and corn. I haven't seen her cook since and probably never will since she claims I am now a grown up and can feed myself.

ABSOLUTE "CAN'T-STANDS"
Tough bread, overly salty food, and overcooked fish/meat.

FAVORITE DESSERT OF ALL TIME
All (I have the sweetest of tooths), but if I had to be specific: corner piece chocolate brownie, key lime pie, cupcakes of any flavor and macarons, which they say are the new cupcakes.

FAVORITE COOKBOOK/COFFEE TABLE BOOK
This past birthday my friends gave me my first "cookbook" of Ben 'n' Jerry's recipes and an ice cream machine. Ice cream party TBD, and everybody's invited.

CULINARY WORDS THAT NEVER LOSE THEIR PANACHE
The classic bon appétit.

FOOD BLOG(S) YOU JUST CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF
The first food blog I ever got into was Food Porn Daily (SFW). Other sites I tend to visit are Food Gawker and Tom Haverfoods (a funny site based on Tom Haverford from the television program, Parks and Recreation). Okay, the latter isn't actually a food blog, but it's food related/a great procrastinator. And of course Four Tines, but purely because I'm featured and am now famous.

Food for Thought | Federico Fellini

“Life is a combination of magic and pasta.”

--Federico Fellini

Food for Thought | Charles M. Schulz

“All you need is love. But a little chocolate now and then doesn't hurt.”

--Charles M. Schulz

Q&A | Alice

For August's Q&A sesh, I am featuring my good friend, Alice, whom I have known since our wee days of middle school. While our gastronomic adventures together didn't really begin until the past few years (both of us living in the city made that inevitable :P), we both have similar interests when it comes to the arts (music, literature, theatre, television, etc.). Going to concerts together (including Sara Bareilles and Joshua Radin), attending book signings for our favorite authors, discussing in depth the most recent novel we've read were bound to lead to a more formal setting to do such things (before/after/during). Whether it'll be grabbing a Vietnamese banh mi from Banh Mi Saigon, discussing when we'll make our own poutine, obsessing over the Morris Grilled Cheese Truck, or dreaming about the mozzarella from Torrisi Italian Specialties, I know Alice will be down for something delicious, casual or more formal. As with recommendations for a good read or for new bands/artists I may have never heard of, I can always count on Alice on having impeccable taste for something or some place good to eat.

Thanks again to Alice for participating in this month's Q&A!

Alice and me taking a cupcake baking class at Butter Lane.

NAME
Alice

CURRENT CITY
New York, NY

FAVORITE ALL-TIME RESTAURANT
I'm not able to pinpoint an all-time favorite but Nyonya, a Malaysian place in Little Italy, is my tried and true, best go-to restaurant. Recommended: roti, beef rendang, curry mixed veggies, and the tofu that's served with flames underneath (super helpful, I know).

MOST REGULARLY FREQUENTED SPOT(S)
Nyonya, Shake Shack, Chop't.

DRINK OF CHOICE
Dirty (or red-eye) chai: a chai latté with a shot of espresso, and it's the best. Iced or hot, you can't go wrong. Alcohol-wise, I love beer -- especially wheat beers and pale ales. When it comes to cocktails, I prefer gin: Pegu Club's Earl Grey martini and a simple but great mix of gin and guava are favorites.

SOMETHING YOU SECRETLY INDULGE
I hoard Crispy M&Ms. You can't find them in the states anymore, so I make friends buy them in giant bagfuls from European airports.

DISH YOU MOST ENJOY PREPARING
Roasted tomato caprese salad: tomatoes, mozzarella, garlic, basil, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper, and sugar. Simple ingredients, but so good.

THE HOMEMADE DISH YOU ALWAYS LONG FOR
A childhood dish: spaghetti with a mix of 2/3 Ragú and 1/3 white clam sauce, topped with shredded mozzarella. Growing up, this was my default meal whenever I was given a choice. I still love it.

GASTRONOMIC GETAWAY/ADVENTURE OF CHOICE
I've been lucky enough to travel (and eat) a lot, but I've never been to Japan. I'd love to visit Tokyo for the sashimi and ramen, and to check out all of the hole-in-the-wall restaurants.

CULINARY ICONS
I don't actually have any culinary icons, but I can't get enough of Top Chef -- does that count? Bourdain is great, too.

MEAL YOU WISH YOU CAN REPEAT BUT SOMEHOW CANNOT
During a family trip, we had dong po rou -- Chinese braised pork belly -- in Hangzhou, China. From any other part of the world, it's usually just a bunch of pork fat but in Hangzhou, it was such good melt in your mouth deliciousness that we ordered several plates because we knew we'd never have it again.

ABSOLUTE "CAN'T-STANDS"
Blueberries are gross -- they remind me of fish eyeballs.

FAVORITE DESSERT OF ALL TIME
Apple pie a la mode. With a giant side of whipped cream.

CULINARY WORDS THAT NEVER LOSE THEIR PANACHE
Delicious.

FOOD BLOG(S) YOU JUST CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF
Four Tines, of course. And Grub Street is great, too.

Food for Thought | Julia Child, ii

“Learn how to cook -- try new recipes, learn from your mistakes, be fearless and above all have fun.”

--Julia Child
from My Life in France, 2006.

Food for Thought | Jason Fox

“It's our job to seek out the best ingredients. We can't pat ourselves on the back for that and then not take considered steps to turn those ingredients into something magical.”

--Jason Fox, executive chef of Commonwealth in San Francisco
from "Is Seasonal Eating Overrated?" article by Katherine Wheelock in Food & Wine, August 2012.

Q&A | Kris & Amanda

July's Q&A features a sibling duo, Amanda and Kristopher (Kris for short), whom I've had the pleasure of knowing most of my life, primarily because our mothers went to high school together (in downtown Manhattan), and coincidentally, our families grew up in the same town in suburban Central Jersey. Now a stipulation about this awesome bro-and-sis pair -- they are arguably the most adventurous people I know, in both regards to food and outdoor activities. They'll be the first to try the bizarrest of foods in foreign countries as well as the first to volunteer ziplining through the jungle. Plus, they were groomed and bred by the man whom I consider the foodiest of all the foodies in my life -- their father whom I call Uncle Leon always knows the best places to go because of his incredibly discerning palate and meticulous tastes. As a family, you know they'll take care of you when it comes to things in the culinary arena.

Anyway, Amanda and Kris both inherited their father's genes in this regard, always on the prowl for something good to eat, savor, and enjoy. You'll know they'll be at the front of the beeline to try something new, and they're not afraid to be open and frank about it. If it's delicious, it's worthy of praise; if it's just not good, they will say so. Amanda and Kris are both quality individuals who have impeccable taste in all aspects of life (including food, fashion, art, and design) and are two of the most generous people I've had the chance to be around. When I'm at a loss for where/what to eat, I know they'll always have something tucked up their sleeves that will blow me away.

Thanks again to Amanda and Kris for participating in July's Q&A sesh!

Kris and Amanda enjoying fresh mojitos at the Dream Downtown Hotel pool.

NAME
Kris & Amanda

CURRENT CITY
New York, NY

FAVORITE ALL-TIME RESTAURANT
Kris: Sushi of Gari. It was a one-time deal: a graduation gift from my godmother. She knew of my obsession with sushi and took me there for the most spectacular meal of my life. We ordered from the Chef's Special Menu which consists of five pieces of fish that change on a constant and daily basis. Each has its own sauce that is delicately placed in between the cut of fish and the rice. They don't even bother giving you soy sauce or wasabi, because the fish has enough flavor as is. I will never forget the meal -- the Chef's Special changes every day and there is no menu. You simply order it, and five pieces of fish are brought to you. We ordered five rounds a person, and each fish was uniquley different with its own special flavor. Save this for only special occasions because it is $10 for a single piece of sushi.

Amanda: Alma de Cuba in Philadelphia. I stumbled across this charming place seven years ago while looking for a nearby jazz bar. This restaurant threw me off at first. As I walked down Walnut Street, one of the busiest streets in Philly, I saw this three-story, pale-yellow, colonial looking house, set between modern buildings. I found it peculiar and peeked inside, only to find contemporary fixtures, warm red lighting, and hot Latin music. To this day, I can't get enough of its bread (I know it's lame, but they are the most delightful mouthfuls of chewy, warm, fragrant goodness you'll ever have). Every time I head to Philly, I stop by for some ceviche, churrasco, and my must-have -- its signature Alma Colada, a blend of passionfruit juice, coconut milk, Bacardi superior and rum.

MOST REGULARLY FREQUENTED SPOT(S)
Kris: For brunch, I hardly eat at the same place twice -- there are too many brunch places here in New York City. When I'm at work in Midtown, lunch means Dishes-To-Go. Then for dinner, I like to frequent Westville, Ippudo, The Meatball Shop, and The Stanton Social. If the night leads into a drunken stupor, late night drunk eats are Artichoke Pizza, Cafeteria, and the Halal Cart on 14th Street and Irving.
Amanda: In New York City, they would be Shake Shack, Sushi Samba, Joe's Shanghai, Tiger Bar, and Pinkberry.

DRINK OF CHOICE
Kris: Any alcoholic drink that stems from a tea usually catches my interest, e.g., Chrysanthemum- or hibiscus-inspired cocktails.
Amanda: Elderflower champagne cocktail, but when this isn't available, a classic mojito will do.

SOMETHING YOU SECRETLY INDULGE
Kris: Halal food with EXTRA white sauce and dumplings from hole-in-the-wall restaurants that make you question their sanitation rating. I still have a reputation to uphold so I shall withhold the rest of my dirty little secrets of indulgence! :P

Amanda: There are no secrets here! I frequently indulge in nocciola (hazelnut) gelato and/or Neuhaus chocolates. When I'm craving something savory, similar to my brother, I typically go for some sort of street food. I actually love doner kebabs (i.e., Turkish kabobs) and chicken and rice (with two lines of white sauce and two lines of hot sauce, please!). And of course, I will never pass on a chance to sip an ice cold India Pale Ale microbrew, with a side of chips or fries, of course.

DISH YOU MOST ENJOY PREPARING
Kris: Hearty mashed potatoes with EXTRA butter. It's a holiday tradition that I've always enjoyed making for Thanksgiving and Christmas. It takes a lot of preparation time, and the ingredients are sure to give you a heart attack, but then again, it's tradition.

Amanda: Well, I prefer to bake, so I love making cheesecake. I typically go for the classic recipe with a dash of cinnamon and nutmeg in the crust and a light drizzle of some fresh berry sauce. It's such a simple recipe, though I hate having to wait four hours for the cake will set in the fridge! If I'm in the mood to do some serious cooking, I enjoy making mushroom risotto. The risotto is somewhat time-consuming as you have to constantly add stock into the arborio rice, but I promise I put lots of love into that dish.

THE HOMEMADE DISH YOU ALWAYS LONG FOR
Kris: I don't really know how to say it in English, but the dish Chinese pickled cabbage with slices of beef. Both my grandpa and mom always know to make it for me when I come home after being away for a while. It's sweet and salty, and the cabbage always packs a nice crunch.

Amanda: Hmmm... I think this might be one of the toughest questions (following the words that will never lose their panache!), because I always crave home-cooked food. It always changes, but at the moment I'm missing some bo-zai-fan (literal translation in Chinese for "clay-pot rice"). My dad cooks the rice first and when the water is almost evaporated, he adds a mixture of beef, some secret ingredients, soy sauce, and fresh cilantro. Once it's done, I love digging at the bottom to get the fan zeew (excuse my Cantonese pinyin right now, haha), i.e., the burnt rice at the bottom of the pot.

GASTRONOMIC GETAWAY/ADVENTURE OF CHOICE
Kris: As much as I would like to say a classic European destination known for its organic ingredients and traditional recipes (insert Paris or Tuscany), Hong Kong has always been filled with countless foods which I long for. Having studied abroad in Florence for a semester and traveling across Europe during that time, I came home to the U.S. without having gained any extra weight. That all changed shortly after during my two-month internship in Hong Kong. Every night was a hodgepodge of different Asian flavors, each one seemingly better than the next. To survive the high rent of Hong Kong, restaurants need to deliver, and that's just what they do. Whether it's a beautiful banquet hall or a food joint where you have to soak the chopsticks in tea to disinfect them, Hong Kong is my favorite place to eat.

Amanda: I'm torn between South America and Southeast Asia. Growing up in a Chinese family, I am more accustomed to Asian food in general, so I think I might find more comfort in going to Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Cambodia, and the Philippines. But then again, I also have a strong desire to head on a nitty-gritty, backpacking, culinary adventure through Peru, hopefully making a stop in Ecuador to try the home cooking of Mauro, my beloved former roomie from Spain.

CULINARY ICONS
Kris: My father is a phenomenal cook; many people say their parents are, but I truly believe my dad is a special circumstance. I believe it stems from his humble beginnings as a child who looked at food, yearning for it, but could not afford it. So, now as a full-grown adult who can afford some of the finer foods New York has to offer, he is very selective and savors every flavor. He is hardly satisfied with a meal, and if he compliments a restaraunt, I automatically know if must be a fine one. When he was young, my father served as a bus boy to many of Chinatown's busiest restaraunts. He learned the secrets of the chefs and watched as they prepared meals for affluent customers. With that in tow, he has undoubtedly picked up recipes and ways of getting the best flavors from simple ingredients and spices. He can also prepare an entire meal in about fifteen minutes from start to finish -- a feat which I cannot possibly do.
Amanda: I don't LOVE anyone wholeheartedly, but I do appreciate Anthony Bourdain. He has this carefree, frank, and open-minded attitude towards food, and it's refreshing. I watch his show all the time ,and I get a kick out of his ex-druggie, crazy personality. In terms of game-changing culinary success, I have to say I admire Ferran Adrià, the owner and chef of the now-shuttered elBulli in Spain. His menu is ever-changing and oh-so-inspiring -- it represents culinary innovation at its finest. If I ever won the lottery, and the restaurant was still operating, I would fly myself over there for my first meal as a multi-millionaire.

MEAL YOU WISH YOU CAN REPEAT BUT SOMEHOW CANNOT
Kris: After Chinese school on Saturdays back in New Jersey, my family used to go to this local Szechuan restaurant called King Palace. I remember distinctly its homemade beef stew, rice cakes, and scallion pancakes. It never got old. Unfortunately, it was run by a married couple, and the husband and main chef both became ill, so the restaurant is no-more, but the memory of it still remains as our weekly routine.
Amanda: This one's easy -- while traveling through Andorra, my boyfriend, Martin, and I found this restaurant resting up on a hill in one of the side streets of La Massana. This restaurant is part of a chain of authentic Basque restaurants (Grupo Sagardi/V.O.), but we can never remember the name. We ordered a magret de canard avec foie sauce, which came with a side of rocket salad. The duck was cooked to perfection, and that foie sauce was so rich though never felt heavy. I need this recipe!

ABSOLUTE "CAN'T-STANDS"
Kris: Two things: people who are unwilling to try new foods and people who still want to split the bill 50-50 when you order a salad and they order something like a filet mignon.

Amanda: I'm going to have to agree with Kris on this one -- I can't stand people who are cheap and don't understand the meaning of reciprocity.

FAVORITE DESSERT OF ALL TIME
Kris: Key lime pie from Key West.

Amanda: Martin's Valentine's Day chocolate fondant! Even though his first attempt was made with salted butter rather than unsalted butter, it's still my favorite.

FAVORITE COOKBOOK/COFFEE TABLE BOOK
Kris: I'm not a huge reader of cookbooks, but I am a person who tends to prefer cooking magazines for their seasonal nuances and constant change with current trends.
Amanda: I don't use cookbooks, but if I did, it would be the one I'm in the process of making. I'm collecting family recipes from both sides of my family and will bind it to share with future generations. There's nothing that beats my coveted family recipes.

CULINARY WORDS THAT NEVER LOSE THEIR PANACHE
Kris: I don't know what it is in English but when something is cooked with enough flame intensity, Cantonese adults always talk about the wok hai.

Amanda: Ummm... all French culinary words? Anything said with a French accent just sounds so much more sophisticated -- maybe this is why I'm dating a French-Canadian.

FOOD BLOG(S) YOU JUST CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF
Kris: Four Tines and Immaculate Infatuation.

Amanda: Well the obvious answer is Four Tines and a Napkin, but aside from that, I do find myself getting lost in the words and photos of Aran Goyoaga of Cannelle et Vanille. I am dying to take her food styling class! Stefie, if you haven't seen this blog yet, do check it out.

Food for Thought | George G. Foster

“Every thing is done differently in New York from anywhere else -- but in eating the difference is more striking than in any other branch of human economy.”

--George G. Foster
from New York in Slices, Slice XVII: "The Eating Houses," 1849.

Food for Thought | Eric Ripert

“Influences from childhood memories are very important in my cooking... My grandmother used to have a croque monsieur maker that would make the sandwiches in a shape of a heart or clover. When she passed away, I wanted to pay homage to her. Le Bernardin is a seafood restaurant, so no ham or cheese. But I remember the bread and the butter. And then I started thinking of caviar and salmon, and the Le Bernardin croque monsieur happened... The backbone of my cooking is what I ate and smelled as a young kid.”

--Eric Ripert

from "Sweet, Sour, Savory" conversation with Chef Christina Tosi and Bon Appétit executive editor Christine Muhlke at the French Institute Alliance Française (FIAF) (via Eater), 6.13.2012.

Q&A | Bill & Pam

For June's Q&A session, I'm featuring my cousin Bill and his wife Pam. Bill and Pam are what I would call the ultimate "foodie couple" -- they both have an immense love for food, particularly the artisan and exotic. They're probably one of the most adventurous couples I've ever met, with food as well as in the outdoor activity arena -- junkies for adventure I would say!

I grew up with Bill (crazy to think he's twenty years older than me!), so he was always like an older brother to me. We may not have always seen eye-to-eye during my formative years, but as I got older, we both found a wonderful common ground that we both hadn't noticed before -- food, cuisine, cooking, and the like. This paved way for endless conversations about our collective experiences, and once he met Pam (I swear she's his other half :P), the conversations only evolved in all sorts of dimensions. So while I've only known Pam for the last few years, the three of us always have so much to talk about, as if we've known each other forever. This phenomenon was explored even further when Marcus and I embarked on our trip to San Francisco last year to visit them -- they showed us so many of the Bay Area's culinary facets, adding so many new adventures to the annals of our gastronomic experience. What I love about Bill and Pam is that they're not necessarily into the "scene-y" places, but rather, they like to take the "insider's view" and somewhat "underground" approach to finding new haunts at which to dine and explore.

Thanks again to Bill and Pam for participating in this month's Q&A (and Four Tine's first joint session)! Looking forward to visiting you guys again very soon!

Bill and Pam snorkeling underwater together in Jamaica.

NAME
Bill & Pam

CURRENT CITY
San Francisco, CA

FAVORITE ALL-TIME RESTAURANT
Bill: Bouley in early 2000s, Outerlands for its great food/people, simple menu, comfort, and no pretense.
Pam: Outerlands, for its relaxing atmosphere, fresh ingredients, and creative and constantly evolving menu

MOST REGULARLY FREQUENTED SPOT(S)
both: Outerlands as our regular go-to place; Ino or Sebo for omakase indulgence; Hog Island Oysters for fresh oysters & happy hour; Tartine Bakery for pastries and people watching

DRINK OF CHOICE
Bill: mineral water mixed with juice, simple drip coffee, good ginger ale (not too sweet with intense ginger), wine/beer depending on the food
Pam: tea, wine, good ginger ale, pomegranate juice

SOMETHING YOU SECRETLY INDULGE
Bill: COOKIES!
Pam: Coca Cola. Not a secret, but I also like to indulge in oysters and chocolate.

DISH YOU MOST ENJOY PREPARING
Bill: I make only two things -- bread and chicken stock. Bread wins. It is about the process and the relationship.
Pam: Mom's recipes

THE HOMEMADE DISH YOU ALWAYS LONG FOR
Bill: Two dishes -- Mom's salted fish with minced pork and her chicken wings.
Pam: Mom's soups. Sorry Bill, you make a mean chicken stock, but she has so much variety, and they are all good.

GASTRONOMIC GETAWAY/ADVENTURE OF CHOICE
both: Any busy open stall market. We can't wait to eat what is made with the wonderful ingredients as well as interact with the the people behind the ingredients and the different people that consume them.

CULINARY ICONS
Bill: Pam, Chan Ngan (our family's beloved cook)...learned from reviewing books from Thomas Keller, Marc Bittman, Eric Ripert and Cook's Illustrated
Pam: Didn't realized it until recently, but my mom has been a huge influence on the way I cook. Way before farmer's market got popular, my mom was already out farmer market hopping to find the freshest and bestest ingredients. It didn't matter how busy she was, she would always cook everything from scratch. My mom built the foundation, and cookbooks from Thomas Keller, Mark Bittman, Eric Ripert, and Alice Medrich have kept me inspired.

MEAL YOU WISH YOU CAN REPEAT BUT SOMEHOW CANNOT
Bill: That describes just every meal that I have enjoyed. I wouldn't want to repeat it if I didn't enjoy it. Every meal is pretty unique -- the ingredients, the cooking environment, the dining environment, the people at the table, the conversation, etc. They are all part of the experience.
Pam: 2011 meal at WD~50... I would like to try replicate what we enjoyed, but time, patience, equipment, and resources all get in the way.

ABSOLUTE "CAN'T-STANDS"
Bill: Someone in the kitchen using the "3-second rule."
Pam: Heavy sauces that hide the true flavor of good, fresh ingredients.

FAVORITE DESSERT OF ALL TIME
Bill: My dream of having a wedding cookie.
Pam: Mine is molten lava cake.

FAVORITE COOKBOOK/COFFEE TABLE BOOK
Bill: Stefie's cookbook omakase -- i.e., the cookbooks that Stefie has added to our library as gifts over the last three years.
Pam: Bittersweet -- the book I have used the most.

CULINARY WORDS THAT NEVER LOSE THEIR PANACHE
Bill: "You, donkey!" from Chef Gordon Ramsey -- ONLY KIDDING, LOL. But in all seriousness, mine would be bon appétit and enjoy.
Pam: fresh ingredients, savor

FOOD BLOG(S) YOU JUST CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF
Bill: If we are invited to be regulars -- The Wide Fork, aka Six Tines and a Napkin. If not, Four Tines, of course.
Pam: Four Tines

Food for Thought | Virginia Madsen as Maya

“I love how wine continues to evolve, how every time I open a bottle it’s going to taste different than if I had opened it on any other day. Because a bottle of wine is actually alive -- it’s constantly evolving and gaining complexity. That is, until it peaks – like your '61 [Château Cheval Blanc] -- and begins its steady, inevitable decline. And it tastes so f#$%ing good.”

--Virginia Madsen as "Maya"
from Sideways, 2004.

Food for Thought | Daniel Humm

“We only cook with copper pots and pans. We didn't need them, but I wanted to make a statement that we are a serious restaurant. When you own a nice bicycle, you ride different, push harder. With copper pots, you want to cook a little better. That ‘little’ is all there is between a good restaurant and a great one.”

--Daniel Humm
from "The Juicy Quote" in Bon Appétit, May 2012.

Foodie Film | Jiro Dreams of Sushi

After an interesting dinner at Sushi Azabu, Lisa and I headed over to the West Village to the International Film Channel (IFC) Center to finally see the film we'd been talking about for the last couple months -- Jiro Dreams of Sushi.

We had heard so many wonderful things about this -- through Gilt Taste, The New York Times, and NPR at first, and waves throughout the foodie universe thereafter. Watching the trailer alone is magical, enticing, and delicious -- you couldn't help but be curious as to what the documentary was all about.

The documentary tells the story of an 85-year-old sushi chef (well, not just any sushi chef), Jiro Ono, who is the proprietor of Sukiyabashi Jiro, a ten-seat, sushi-only restaurant located inside a Tokyo subway station. "Despite its humble appearances, it is the first restaurant of its kind to be awarded a prestigious three-star Michelin review, and sushi lovers from around the globe make the repeated pilgrimage, calling months in advance and shelling out top dollar for a coveted seat at Jiro's sushi bar." The experience is rumored to outweigh its hefty cost -- so if you ever find yourself seated at Sukiyabashi Jiro, it'll be the most you'll ever spend for a meal under a half hour (i.e., eighteen or so pieces of nigiri sushi in 20-25 minutes for a whopping prix fixe price of 30,000 ¥ -- about $275). It's certainly a quick-paced marathon.

Jiro has been working most of his life, and he doesn't plan on stopping anytime soon. Throughout this time, he has been "mastering the art of making sushi, but even at his age, he sees himself still striving for perfection, working from sunrise to well beyond sunset to taste every piece of fish; meticulously train his employees; and carefully mold and finesse the impeccable presentation of each sushi creation." It is even said that among "a delegation of revered sushi chefs" that Jiro is the clear lead, who they claim, with no hesitation, has "mastered rice."

The documentary, directed by David Gelb, begins by introducing Jiro and his famed restaurant, going into the sushi chef's process in preparation and execution.

The camera took you to the Tsukiji Market, where each morning, Jiro's eldest son, Yoshikazu, visits to check out and shop the daily catch for the restaurant's next day or two.

The most striking is the intense tuna auction to buy all cuts of Bluefin tuna. The auction is another art form in and of itself.

The documentary also details the relationship that Jiro has with Yoshikazu, "the worthy heir to Jiro's legacy, who is unable to live up to his full potential in his father's shadow" -- he's 50 years old now and remains the father's right hand man. It is tradition in Japan that the eldest son take over the family's business (in this case, Jiro's restaurant). On the other hand, Jiro's younger son, Takashi, opened a restaurant of his own, the sister to Jiro's restaurant, Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi (as it is located in Roppongi Hills, Tokyo) that has two Michelin stars and emulates a more casual atmosphere.

Also featured in the film was Masuhiro Yamamoto, a famed food critic in Japan, who is Jiro's biggest fan. He does a lot of the story telling, sharing his observations with the revered sushi chef.

A piece of o-toro -- fatty tuna -- created by Chef Jiro Ono. The progression of the film as well as a meal at Sukiyabashi Jiro paralleled themselves to an orchestra's performance -- it was quite extraordinary to watch the build-up of these progressive things within the hour and a half that we were seated in the theatre. Even the soundtrack was beautifully done -- all classical masterpieces just like each crafted piece of sushi. More specifically, Mr. Yamamato outright says he views Jiro’s sushi meal "as a concerto with specific movements, or even as an illustration (and dramatization) of a specific philosophy."

Another thing to note is that Mr. Yamamato, among other diners at Sukiyabashi Jiro, shared that every time he dines at the sushi bar (i.e., the first time and all subsequent times), he is always tense and nervous, which he speculates is because he's before the great sushi master of Jiro Ono himself. I find that really awesome that a chef can have a profound effect on such a noteworthy food critic as Mr. Yamamato.

Some of my favorite quotes from the documentary:

• Jiro: "You have to fall in love with your work. You must dedicate your life to mastering your skill. That is the key to happiness."
• (from where the title of the film comes) Jiro: "I would make sushi in my dreams -- I would jump out of bed at night with ideas."
• Jiro (still obsessed with sushi-making): “If I stopped working at 85, I would be bored out of my mind."
• Mr. Yamamoto: "I’ve never seen a chef be so hard on himself."
• Mr. Yamamoto: "The only difference between Jiro now and forty years ago is that he no longer smokes."
• Jiro: "Even at my age, after decades of work, I don’t feel I have achieved perfection. But I feel ecstatic all day."

Findings: Ultimately, this film that "chronicles Jiro’s life as both an unparalleled success in the culinary world, and a loving yet complicated father" is very inspiring both through its salivation-causing imagery and its embracing mantras. As the camera reels through each morsel of sushi, the result is simply delicious, and if you came to the cinema before a meal, expect to leave incredibly hungry. The tone of the film is honest yet light-hearted, especially with the pleasant classical music that haunts its musical score. Even as the dialogue is entirely in Japanese and communicated to the audience through subtitles, Mr. Gelb and his team were able to capture the humor, expressions, and art so very beautifully. You're definitely in for a treat with this film -- I loved it so much that I've already pre-ordered the Blu-ray disc for its release in July!

So I implore you to see this immediately -- definitely worth the time and admission! :)

Price point: $13 admission per adult.

--June 2, 2012

International Film Channel Center

323 Avenue of the Americas

New York, NY 10014

http://www.ifccenter.com

Jiro Dreams of Sushi

Magnolia Pictures

http://www.magpictures.com/jirodreamsofsushi

http://www.ifccenter.com/films/jiro-dreams-of-sushi

limited release on March 9, 2012