List | 2011, best restaurants for dinner

Here's a rundown of my favorite restaurants of 2011 by my very own "award categories":

Most Innovative Omakase

Sushi of Gari takes the cake on having the most innovative omakase offerings I've had in New York City. Sushi Yasuda and 15 East are my other favorites for fresh varieties of fish, but Sushi of Gari really showcases the potential of where you can take raw fish and transform it with some simple dressings. The chef can broil squid directly with a sea urchin sauce on top. He can also add another dimension to tuna with rich creaminess and a nice grainy texture. Uni can also be blow-torched slightly before serving. Sautéed tomatoes can transform raw salmon into something savory and slightly sweet. Golden eye snapper can also have a nice crunchy finish with crispy seaweed sprinkled atop. Lastly, the neighborhood vibe at Sushi of Gari makes it very unpretentious and comfortable for its patrons. Everyone is so friendly and happy, which is quite contagious during any meal there. And as with any great sushi spot, please request for seats at the sushi bar. It'll make it more dramatic and theatrical as well as personal (since you get to talk directly with the sushi chefs).

Best New Restaurant

The Dutch is a great all-around New American restaurant to satisfy any palate, generous or fastidious, where the menu's cuisine, created by Chef Andrew Carmellini, has clean and fresh flavors with ingredients that are "new" and refreshing for traditional American cuisine. Highlights include a nice glass of Furmint Sec (a Hungarian white wine) on the list of wines by the glass -- a great alternative to my usual Rieslings. The starting courses on the menu boasts a fun list of snacks and appetizers for sharing, like the Little Oyster sandwiches, which are scrumptious and a must-order! The fish "second courses" are perfectly silky with subtle Asian flavor influences like the black cod in yuzu-chili broth. Ideal place to go with friends to catch up over some solid grub.

Best Ingredient-Focused Tasting Menu (Pasta!) and Most Practical Wine Program

Chef Shea Gallate's Ciano boasts a cohesive five-course, pasta-inspired (more pasta-centric, if you ask me) tasting menu for lunch and dinner for a bargain price of $79! Highlights include a ravioli con carbonara -- combination of pecorino, smoked guanciale, hen egg, fried parsley, and black pepper, which was the pasta version of a perfect brunch on a relaxing Sunday morning; gnudi "tre-colore" -- a "nude" ravioli (just filling, no pasta) comprising of three "colored" flavors: parmigiano (white), chevril (green), and black truffle ("red") that were densely savory; and a rotolo di pasta -- a pasta roll that contains broccoli rabe, sweet sausage, and tomato ragù, which was just the right amount of deliciousness inside the roll. The portion of each course was manageable (pasta even influence the last "dessert/sweet" course), and the featuring of pastas that aren't typically seen in nearly every Italian restaurant (spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parm, penne alla vodka, etc.) makes the pasta tasting menu that much more appealing.

John Slover, the restaurant's wine director, instilled "half bottle" program at Ciano. Essentially, every single bottle of wine in the cellar is up for grabs as either a whole bottle or a half bottle! How freaking awesome is that?! You don't have to commit to the entire bottle unless you wish to, plus you can opt to try something else if you're not totally feeling the first half of the bottle. Additionally, you can "shop" off the "already open" bottle list for wines that strike your immediate fancy! So practical and simple -- one more reason to get to Ciano, pronto!

Best Seafood and Extraordinary Wine Pairings

Le Bernardin is definitely up there on my list of "Best Meals I've Ever Had" -- the seafood courses are ethereal and explosive with multi-faceted flavors, textures, and temperatures. What made this meal so memorable and share-worthy were undoubtedly the wine pairings throughout the course of our dinner. Two courses particularly come to mind, as the pairings could not have been more spot-on -- I've never reacted this way to a wine pairing, where I was shockingly wide-eyed with my mouth gaping in a lauding awe. Aldo Sohm, the restaurant's wine director (and world-renowned sommelier -- in fact, named the best one in the world in 2008) certainly has a knack for synergizing the cuisine of Chef Eric Ripert with the magical powers of the fermented grape.

Under the "Almost Raw" section of the menu (i.e., the first course at Le Bernardin), a classic is the Yellowfin tuna, thinly pounded with foie gras atop a toasted baguette covered with shaved chives and extra virgin olive oil. The restaurant typically pairs this course with a Moscatel Seco from Málaga Spain, a dry muscat that works really well with the tuna-foie gras combination as the little bit of residual sugar "connects" (Mr. Sohm's words) the richness of the foie gras with the tuna marinated in lemon juice.

From the "Barely Touched" section of the menu (i.e., second course), you must have the charred octopus with purple basil, fermented black bean, peach sauce vierge and ink-miso vinaigrette. Paired with a Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand, the octopus will become simply captivating to the palate, almost like you're tasting glorious octopus for the first time ever, being able to truly grasp all of its intricate flavors and nuances in the same way a colorblind individual sees colors for the first time.

Le Bernardin is the perfect place to commemorate a special occasion. Plus, many of the popular dinner items are offered on the not-so-abbreviated lunch prix fixe for a relative bargain price of $70 per person, so maybe play hooky from work and indulge in a fine lunch.

Best Overall Dining Experience

Eleven Madison Park offers what I believe to be one of the best dining experiences in New York City. The cuisine performs at the highest marks, and the service is impeccably welcoming without being overwhelming or too hovering. I always feel completely at home and relaxed, as the service team is so incredibly excited that you're there to share a culinary experience with them. In Chef Thomas Keller's words, it's all about finesse, andEleven Madison Park has always got it. This place will always have my heart (and my beloved tummy).

As the unconventional matrix-format menu changes every season, here are some highlights from the fall-driven prix fixe menu: lobster poached with sherry butter, served alongside with a medley of autumn mushrooms, spinach, and a sabayon of mushrooms -- a velvety finish, both rich and buttery, and the flavor carried throughout each tenderly soft chunk which melts with the creamy sabayon; variations of carrots roasted in duck fat with dates and wheatberries -- an ode to the fall season with its hearty choice of ingredients with the carrots' texture caramelized with a blast of savory flavor like a subtle curry; and the whole duck roasted in lavender honey with figs and turnips -- presents beautifully with a pink center, incredibly crispy skin, and a succulent taste and tender texture as the spices and herbs work harmoniously. Before the last course (i.e., dessert), you will receive an instantly made egg cream (made right before your eyes) -- whole milk, orange syrup and oil, cocoa nibs, and seltzer. It is courses like the duck and the egg cream that makes Eleven Madison Park even more special -- the performance aspect of the dining experience is incorporated so seamlessly into its multi-course prix fixe line-up.

Any meal (whether it be dinner or lunch) should not be missed at Eleven Madison Park. Just like Le Bernardin, the restaurant also offers a relative bargain brunch at a not-as-hefty price of $74 per person. Only difference at Eleven Madison Park is that the menu choices/options are not abbreviated -- lunch has the same exactly offerings as the dinner menu does (maybe just not as many "in between"/ad hoc courses as dinner does).

HONORABLE MENTIONS:

Brushstroke

David Burke Kitchen
Degustation

La Promenade des Anglais

Veritas

--circa 2011

Sushi of Gari

402 East 78th Street

New York, NY 10075

http://www.sushiofgari.com

The Dutch

131 Sullivan Street

New York, NY 10012

http://www.thedutchnyc.com

Ciano

45 East 22nd Street

New York, NY 10010

http://www.cianonyc.com

Le Bernardin

155 West 51st Street

New York, NY 10019

http://www.le-bernardin.com

Eleven Madison Park

11 Madison Avenue

New York, NY 10010

http://www.elevenmadisonpark.com

Dinner | The Dutch

I apologize for the unexpected absence from the blog! Now that Marcus and I are mostly settled into our new place, blogging shall commence at normal pace once again!


Anyways, I paid a long-awaited visit to The Dutch last month with Alice, and Clare, her friend from college who also enjoys good food. I received the recommendation from my co-worker, James, who raved about everything on its menu, as well as via the relatively recent restaurant review by Sam Sifton in the Times.

Chef Andrew Carmellini, The Dutch's executive chef, began his culinary career at the young age of fourteen in his Ohio hometown at an Italian joint, later moving onto a fine-dining establishment that centered around French cuisine . He went on to study and train at the Culinary Institute of America, where he cooked for New York state's governor, Mario Cuomo, on the weekends. Post graduation, Chef Carmellini worked the line at San Domenico in New York City, then traveled to Italy where learned the arts of making pasta, prosciutto, wine, cheese and truffle hunting. He returned later to Manhattan to work at Lespinasse and Le Cirque, spending a year cooking and traveling through France and England in between. Later on, Chef Carmellini helped open Café Boulud in 1998 as chef de cuisine (earning him 2 James Beard Awards) as well a A Voce near Madison Square Park (where he earned his first Michelin star) in 2004. Five years later, he opened Locanda Verde, the restaurant housed in Robert DeNiro's Greenwich Hotel in Tribeca followed by The Dutch in the last year.


I waited in the bar area as I waited for Alice and Clare to arrive for our evening dinner reservation. I liked the style and look of the bar -- the look of the organic wood, low and industrial-style lighting. The old-school attire of the bartenders were a nice touch too -- sweater vests are always a plus in my book!


I decided to have glass of white wine recommended by the bartender, given my inclination for fruitier wines. This one was a glass of Furmint Sec from Tokaji, Hungary produced by Királyudvar with a 2007 vintage. This is Királyudvar's signature (and innovative) dry white wine balances viscous intensity and bright acidity of the furmint grape (i.e., the grape that is indigenous to Tokaji). Alice followed suit, too, once we were seated.


Inside The Dutch's rear dining room.


As we began perusing the menu, we were given a plate of freshly baked cornbread and some salted butter. Although the texture of the cornbread was incredibly crumbly (making it kind of difficult to eat), the savory flavors were good overall.


Clare suggested we start with these Little Oyster sandwiches (from the "snacks" section of the menu), and I'm so glad we did! They were lightly battered and fried, making them super delectable. The tartare sauce wasn't very heavy complementing the bivalve's texture and naturally fishy (the good kind) flavor. Highly recommend these for table starters!


New York Sour with mellow corn whiskey, lemon, peach bitters, and a claret float (i.e., the red wine from Bordeaux or wine of a similar character made elsewhere that floats in the cocktail, similar to the grenadine in a tequila sunrise). It was very strong from the whiskey (though when isn't whiskey strong?), but a very solid cocktail from a flavor standpoint.

The Dutch's menu referred to its evening menu as the "supper" menu, a quirky yet fun touch, as "supper" specifically denotes a light or informal evening meal (typically, a late-night dinner). I found the word choice here to be both clever and fitting. Plus, the "main courses" on this menu are also called "seconds" -- as if they're the second helpings to the appetizers (i.e., first courses) you probably ordered.


For my main course, I ordered the black cod with smoked mushrooms and yuzu-chili broth. I'm a sucker for black cod when I come across them as menu items at restaurants. It certainly lived up to everything I thought it would be. The texture was warm and silky at the ideal temperature, foaming with the Asian flavors from the yuzu's citrus as well as the spices from the chili infused in the broth. The earthiness of the smoked mushrooms and asparagus complemented the light but flavorful broth and the savory cod in a very synergistic way. Overall. it was a very light, clean, and refreshing main course.


Alice went with the sea scallops with peas, bacon, and chipotle pepper. The scallops were seared with a tender center (no raw sliminess here!) and toasty surfaced, topped with crisp bacon, a sea of peas, and sautéed shallots. The dish here gave the otherwise"fancier" gourmet main ingredient of sea scallops a more homestyle feel from the familiarity from the medley of peas, shallots, and bacon. A lovely main course, for sure.


Clare had the steamed black bass with mussel-lemongrass curry and peanuts, which was ultimately a curry seafood stew. I liked the fun addition of shredded taro chips (along with the peanuts), which added a nice textural contrast to the smooth soupy base and soft black bass. I normally am not a big fan of curry, but The Dutch executed it very well here -- very flavorful without being extremely overwhelming in spices where it clouds the other ingredients and their unique flavors in a said curry dish. The sea bass here (as with the black cod) was steamed to the perfect temperature where the center was cooked just enough before becoming overcooked. The mussels were a delicious addition as well.


For dessert, I had the strawberry shortcake with honey butter biscuit, tarragon cream, and lemon-anisette granita. It wasn't the strawberry shortcake I had expected (i.e., the traditional sort), but I thought the deconstructed ingredients presented as dessert was quite creative. Never did I expect a butter biscuit to be incorporated into a strawberry shortcake dessert, but it seemed to work as the "shortcake" part of the dessert. With tarragon cream scoop at its center and citrus-infused granita atop a fresh medley of berries, this dessert was light and very refreshing -- just a little too tart for my personal liking.


Clare had the summer sundae with apricot sorbet, frozen custard, and sautéed stone fruits, caramel, and raspberries. I found the use of sautéed stone fruits to be interesting, but overall, we found this dessert to be just okay -- it was good, but nothing really stood out much.


Alice had the pie of the day which was a cherry pie served with toasted almonds a la mode. Being the pie fanatic she is, Alice found the pie to be mediocre as well. Nevertheless, it was prepared well -- just didn't have the punch we were expecting.

Findings: Overall, the three of us had a very lovely dinner at The Dutch. The snack we ordered, along with each of our main courses, proved that Chef Carmellini carefully crafted a menu of some solid dishes that essentially created a poetic symphony of flavors, spices, and ingredients for the restaurants patrons to enjoy and on which to pass the good word. I'm excited to see what new items Chef Carmellini will have in store for The Dutch during the fall season. I really liked that the courses we had were proportionately sized (i.e., not at all sparse, yet not anywhere close to overly generous diner portions). Tastes are well-balanced and used to close to their highest potential which was quite admirable. It is every so often that I come across a restaurant that is worthy of this kind of praise, and The Dutch is one of those restaurants. Looking forward to more visits in the near future -- it certainly is the "jack-of-all-trades" in the restaurant world, as it is great for dates, catching up with friends, impressing out-of-towners, and relaxing over a lovely Sunday night supper in a pleasant corner of SoHo.

Price point: $5 for each miniature sandwich, $13 for each glass of white wine, $14 for each cocktail, $26-29 for each second, $10 for each dessert.

--July 10, 2011

The Dutch
131 Sullivan Street
New York, NY 10012
http://www.thedutchnyc.com