Dinner | El Almacén

This past Saturday, I met up with some former bean countin' colleagues, Katie and Christine, in Williamsburg to catch up over a casual bite at El Almacén.

El almacén is Spanish for "general store," a detail "referenced most in the old-time-shop décor like the front counter, chalkboard menus, and a glass ingredient cabinet." Additionally, the menu at El Almacén is very share-friendly, encouraging a tapas-style experience for the entire table.

The ambient, more intimate part of the restaurant, which is positioned inside upon entering the restaurant, leads to an outdoor patio with greenery and a little garden. I had been here previously on an impromptu visit with Linda (a waitress at Sweetwater Tavern had highly recomnmended it), and we both loved it. However, during that visit, I didn't have my camera on me at the time, so I wanted to come back to properly document it, especially since we were seated in the restaurant's outdoor patio area where the natural light was perfect for some nice shots.

We arrived just in time for happy hour, where the deal is two for one of the same cocktail, house wine, or sangria. Katie chose the blackberry gimlet (vodka, lime, and muddled blackberries), I had the white sangria, and Christine went with the Buenos Aires (a concoction of lime and Primo vodka -- a vodka distilled from malbec grapes -- topped with a splash of wine, which is the lining of magenta seen from the side of the glass). The two-for-one deal lasted us for the course of our dinner (with some swapping of drinks, of course), and they were all very well mixed and perfect for the last weeks of summer. Most noteworthy and different was the Buenos Aires -- never had Primo vodka before. Definitely recommend coming here for happy hour so you don't feel so guilty for have two drinks! :)

To start, we obviously had to have some freshly made guacamole with avocado, tomato, cilantro, onion, and smoked jalapeño. What I really like about this particular guacamole is that you can really enjoy the buttery texture of the avocado as well as the cohesively refreshing taste of the entire thing without the overpowering of raw onion, cilantro, and lime juice. The tomatoes were finely cubed, making it easier to take generous scoops of the guacamole without running into trouble. Overall, it hit the proper balances in the right places, which could explain why every morsel of it was gone before our next small plate came out.

Christine requested we try the ceviche mixto -- a lightly marinated combination of shrimp, octopus, raw hamachi (yellowtail), red onion, cilantro, lime, and maiz cancha (i.e., corn nuts). For a ceviche, I thought the pieces of sea fare were a bit larger in size than I'm used to, but then again, this is probably a good thing as most restaurants skimp in quantity. The marinade had a nice overlay of flavor -- a bit sweet and salty -- and my favorite pieces were the cubed hamachi.

We were given some bread chips -- I think they were to be eaten alongside the ceviche. Really crispy and crouton-like, only thinner.

We also got a side order of avocado fries with ketchup. Yup, another reason why "fried anything" is always gonna be good, and they were very tangy with the ketchup (great combo!). These thick slices of avocado were ripened to a balanced consistency of firm and soft, evenly battered, and then fried to a golden browned, crispy skin -- not soggy one bit! If you're looking for something you and your guests to indulge in, these would be one of those things.

We also decided to try the empanadas. As each order came with two, we went with our server's recommendations: one with spinach, cheese, and corn then another with hand-cut steak, egg, and cheese. While Katie preferred the spinach one and Christine the steak one, I came to like both, each for its different flavors. The empanadas' pastry exterior was dense yet flaky, making it easy to cut and bite into. The first one reminded me of a more refined, more gourmet artichoke dip-like interior, creamy from the cheese and sweetened up by the little kernals of corn. The other one was lasagna-like with an Argentinian flair of course. Even though the three of us shared both of these, it was quite filling, so be wary if you're planning on ordering it for yourself! Either way, these are very good empanadas!

Last but not least, we ordered three chocolos -- grilled corn with chipotle mayo and grated cotija (i.e., a hard cow's milk cheese). Along with the avocado fries, these should be on your must-order list for El Almacén. Besides the smoky, charred flavor from the grill, what really makes this cob of corn so great is the grated cotija cheese. The subtle creaminess from the cotija does what butter does for American-style cobs. As for the chipotle mayo -- well, it just adds a little spiciness to the juicy kernals. If you don't get corn stuck between your front teeth, then you ate this all the wrong way. Get really into it, and you'll definitely enjoy it a lot more! :P

Findings: Even on my second trip to El Almacén, I once again left with a glorious impression of its Argentinian-Mexican fare. It really is a lovely place to catch up with friends, al fresco, over small plates full of delicious surprises. Must-orders for the table? Guacamole, avocado fries, and a chocolo for you and each of your guests (don't worry -- the avocado dishes are not redundant!) -- the rest is up to you. Almost like one of those choose-your-own ending stories we all used to read as children -- your "food story" at El Almacén will be determined by the choices you make obviously, but know your palate will be pleasantly entertained no matter what these choices may be. Each time you come back, you'll want to retrace the same tracks you made in your previous stories (that choclo alone is surely worth many repeats), but you will also wish to set a new adventure for yourself (perhaps a new ceviche, or something heartier like their multi-ounce steaks?). Cocktails are a must, and the best time to go is during happy hour so you can enjoy two cocktails for the price of one, guilt-free.

Price point: $8-$15 for each small plate, $8 $5-8 for each side to be shared, $9-10 for each two-for-one drink during happy hour.

--August 18, 2012

El Almacén

557 Driggs Avenue

Brooklyn, NY 11211

http://www.elalmacennyc.com

El Almacen
557 Driggs Avenue
Brooklyn
NY
Really great small plates of Argentinian-Mexican fare. The choclo and avocado fries are a must because they will blow you away. Notable guacamole, ceviches, and stuffed peppers.
Four Tines & a Napkin

Brunch | Empellón Cocina

Marcus and I had a brunch date last weekend at Empellón Cocina (thanks to a gratuitous recommendation from Alice!) in the East Village. It was probably one of the hottest days we've had this summer, so we trekked through the pounding heat to finally make it there.

Empellón means "to push" in Spanish, and it is the creation of Chef Alex Stupak, whose Mexican cuisine at Empellón Cocina acknowledges the "fine line between taking a cuisine in a new direction and stripping it of its soul." The kitchen at Empellón Cocina is "dedicated to the myriad of fundamental techniques and applications that make Mexican cooking taste Mexican," where its approach is "informed by authenticity but not limited by it."

Chef Stupak graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, where shortly after, he went to work at Chicago's Tru as a tournant. Two years later, he became a sous chef at The Federalist in Boston (in the state where he had grown up). Shortly after, he left to pursue an opportunity at another restaurant in Boston, Clio, whereto he had previously had an externship during his time at CIA, to become the restaurant's first pastry chef. He became Boston's "Best Pastry Chef" in 2003, and a couple years later, Chef Grant Achatz asked him to become a pastry chef at Alinea in Chicago, at which time hadn't been opened yet. After his time at Alinea, Chef Stupak went to work for Chef Wylie Dufresne at New York City's wd~50 in 2007.

The next "logical progression" that Chef Stupak had for himself was "to push" (just like his restaurant brand's name) in "a new direction by answering a simple question, "What do you love to eat the most?" The answer to this question sent the chef "working to create the restaurant he was dreaming of rather than the one he was groomed for" the next four years in New York City. In March 2010, Empellón Taqueria opened, and Empellón Cocina opened a year later.

I began our brunch with a glass of the zona rosa -- a mixture of tequila, rosé, and another ingredient that escapes me now. It was a bit strong at first -- tequila can really do that to a drink, hehe -- but after a while of sipping it during the course of our meal, it was quite refreshing. It is the perfect pitchered concoction to share with friends whilst catching up over brunch.

To start, Marcus and I decided to sample three of the salsas from the restaurant's selection of seven different kinds. The red was the tomatillo-chipotle, the green was the salsa verde, and the white/cream was the smoked cashew. The salsas were served alongside masa crisps (i.e., made from hominy flour), which are a little thinner and crispier than a tortilla chip. Our favorites were the tomatillo-chipotle (a spicy, thick structure) and the smoked cashew (a smoky and creamy nuttiness), and the masa crisps went so deliciously with them -- the perfect dipping vessel for these flavorful salsas. Now, these are certainly worth getting for the table!

For my main course, I went with the slow-poached eggs with toasted challah and green chorizo gravy. Slow-poached eggs and challah bread are both some of my favorite brunch foods, so I thought this would be the way to go for me. But, however much I loved the challah, the slow-poached eggs weren't as poached-like as I had wanted, and the green chorizo gravy had a spice/herb of which I wasn't too fond. Otherwise, if it hadn't been for my own personal taste profile, this is a well-crafted Mexican version of egg-in-the-hole.

Marcus had the buttermilk-masa pancakes with smoked-maple syrup and mole poblano butter, which he easily claimed to be the best pancakes he has ever had. The texture was the best part of these pancakes -- they were thick and substantial yet somehow light and fluffy without being too airy (as many fluffy pancakes can be). The smoky syrup combined with the punchy butter made these pancakes stand out even more. So if you're a pancake lover, you need to give these a try!

We also shared a side of bacon, which was also pretty good, as they were thickly sliced. Mmm!

For dessert, I couldn't help but order some churros with champurrado (i.e., chocolate-based atole -- a warm and thick Mexican drink). Piping hot and well deep-fried, the churros went great with the chocolate atole -- the perfect amount of bittersweetness to end a savory brunch.

Findings: Overall, we had a lovely time at Empellón Cocina. While I didn't fall in love with the slow-poached eggs (I blame my novice palate when it comes to authentic Mexican food), Marcus and I undoubtedly fell in love with the buttermilk-masa pancakes (so fluffy and delicious) as well as the salsas we had tried. Chef Alex Stupak definitely has some wonderful things cooking up for brunch here, especially if you're looking for interesting twists on the usual American brunch items with some authentic Mexican flair mixed in. I'm curious to check out this spot for dinner as I'm sure it'll be able to showcase Chef Stupak's other culinary talents in the realm of Mexican cuisine. Either way, I need to try the guacamole with pistachios and masa chips (the combination sounds so great) next time I'm there -- anyone care to join me? :)

Price point: $3 for each salsa, $13 for each main course, $10 for a glass of zona rosa, $5 for the side, $10 for dessert.

--July 7, 2012

Empellón Cocina

105 First Avenue

New York, NY 10003

http://www.empellon.com/cocina

Empellón Cocina
105 First Avenue
New York
NY
The buttermilk-masa pancakes are a must-order! Try the guacamole and a few salsas while you're at it!
Four Tines and a Napkin

Dinner | Dos Toros Taqueria

Per an insistent recommendation by my co-worker, Elan, Dos Toros Taqueria has been on my list of places to try before the end of the year. So when I saw this LivingSocial deal (i.e., $20 to spend on food and drink at Dos Toros for only $10!), I nabbed it so Marcus and I could finally go try it together.


Elan said he prefers going to the Union Square location, but as the LivingSocial deal was for the West Village location, that is where Marcus and I ended up going. Love the "T" in the Dos Toros logo -- minimalist, serifed bull horns!

Leo and Oliver Kremer, originally from the San Francisco Bay Area, started Dos Toros here in New York City. Growing up, the two brothers ate at their favorite taqueria nearly every single day of the week. Later, upon venturing to the East Coast, they were shocked to discover that the same stuff simply was not available, which inspired them to come up with Dos Toros Taqueria. The Kremer brothers has made the focus of Dos Toros to be obsessively about food, spending countless hours perfecting the taqueria's recipes and sourcing fresh, high quality ingredients from local vendors.


The interior of Dos Toros is a combination of custom light fixtures pairs with counter tops made from reclaimed wood. As for the menu, the Kremer brothers is proud to say that it is "short and sweet" in that you can "spend mroe time eating and less time trying to figure out what to order." There's a choice from burrito, taco, quesadilla, and plato as well as the respective protein (e.g., carnitas, pollo asado, carne asada, and rice/bean).


Per Elan's sole recommendation that I "HAD to get the crispy chicken tacos," I, in fact, got the crispy chicken tacos -- crispy meaning the tortilla is heated and grilled slightly with some cheese before plopping on the protein (chicken, in this case) and the token condiments (sour cream, salsa, and guacamole). Oh man -- these tacos were out of this world! Toasting up the flour tortillas with a little bit of cheese made a big difference for the tacos at Dos Toros! The chicken had a nice char to it. The condiment combination of guacamole, salsa, and sour cream were really dynamic in flavors, mainly because you can taste the fresh ingredients used in each. The avocados mashed within the guacamole were rich and buttery while the tomatoes in the salsa were fresh and juicy. The sour cream was a nice unifier of the salsa and guacamole -- it was just enough to get that mildly sour taste going with the rest of the taco. As someone who has a very hard time eating, enjoying, and digesting Mexican food, Dos Toros is a beacon of hope. The tacos did not feel like one big gloppage of Mexican condiments all mixed in with chicken you can barely taste because of the condiments' flavors drowning and overpowering it. By the time I finished them, I was already craving some more!


Marcus not only got a crispy chicken taco but also a crispy steak taco. Elan was right -- the crispy chicken taco simply dominates taco side of the menu. Nothing supercedes its sheer deliciousness.


Along with our tacos, Marcus and I shared a Mexican bottled Coke and a bag of chips.

Findings: I was very impressed with the crispy chicken tacos over at Dos Toros. It not only is crispy (love, love, love that they warm up the tortilla with a little cheese prior to filling it), but it boasts the freshest of ingredients (juicy tomatoes and ripened, buttery avocados) wrapped in its interior. Definitely will come back to Dos Toros when I'm craving some tacos! So if you do make it to Dos Toros, do yourself a favor and order dos crispy chicken tacos. You'll be glad you did.

Kudos to Elan for this great recommendation!

Price point: $7.35-7.81 for each taco, $2.30 for a bottled drink, $0.92 for chips.

--October 28, 2011

Dos Toros Taqueria (West Village)
11 Carmine Street
New York, NY 10014
http://www.dostoros.com

Dinner | Oyamel

Per the recommendation on the Gastronomer's blog, I made reservations for the evening we spent in DC with Angela and Krystal (the one who accompanied me to craftbar last fall) at Chef José Andrés' Oyamel in the neighborhood of Penn's Quarter. Chef Andrés aims to capture "Mexico's rich, regional diversity with the modern, urban atmosphere of Mexico City" here at Oyamel, which incidentally alludes to the "Sacred Fir"--native to the mountains of central and southern Mexico. The "Sacred Fir" is named after the use of cut foliage in religious festivals in Mexico, particularly at Christmas. As such, the oyamel is the preferred tree for the Monarch butterfly (also represented in the restaurant's logo) to reside in colonies during its hibernation in Mexico.


Inside Oyamel's dining room.


Another ode to the Monarch butterfly in the main dining room--mobiles with butterflies!


Every table starts with the chips (fresh masa, fried daily, seasoned with a house-made blend of chiles, salt, and tequila) and salsa (smokey chipotle chiles, onions, and field-ripened tomatoes made fresh every day). The first one is on the restaurant, and any additional chips and salsa is on you! The chips were very fresh and really light, and the salsa was very much different from the redsalsa Americans are used to seeing at the grocery store. This was more smokey and earthy in flavor (not so much sweet and tart), and I think it's great that they make it fresh daily--makes it that much better!


We ordered a side of guacamole made on the spot with green tomatillo, serrano chile, and a basket of fresh tortilla chips for the table. Nothing better to start off a dinner at a Mexican restaurant than with some freshly pestled guacamole in a mortar! It was very fresh and had some newly added spices I've never had in guacamole before which I really enjoyed. I could have done without the raw onions and cilantro, though. Wish I had spoken up! But not all was lost--it was still great!

The menu was comprised of tacos, sopas, and antojitos (the menu describes these as "little dishes from the streets," as they are ultimately traditional snacks or small plates). We went the antojito route and shared a few of them among the four of us.


Marcus ordered first antojito--the camarones al mojo de ajo negro, which was shrimp sautéed with shallots, arbol chile, poblano chile, lime, and sweet aged black garlic. I thought this was a really awesome shrimp dish. The aged black garlic and shallots added a sweet pungency to the shrimp, while the chiles gave it a little kick of spice. I had to eat mine in little pieces because it was very spicy for me, as I have a very mild palate. Love the bowl, too!


Next came the dish Angela and I ordered to share between us--the mejillones al tequila con chipotle, which were steamed mussels with tequila, sautéed garlic, and chipotle sauce. If you can execute a bucket of mussels with bold flavors and enjoyable juiciness, you're good in my book! Steaming tequila with garlic and chipotle sauce was a great combination of flavors that the mussels soaked in all the flavor, making for some juicy mussels! These are definitely worth sharing for the table!


Marcus's other antojito was the huachinango a la Veracruzana, which was seared red snapper, Veracruz-style, with tomatoes, onions, jalapeño chiles, olives, and capers. For lovers of capers, this would be right up your alley, but for Marcus and me, who aren't too fond of the strong, salty flavor from capers (especially from eating them directly), the taste of the red snapper suffered a lot. Seeing the capers in the ingredient listing should have been a red flag for us not to order it, but alas, we didn't realize how intense the added flavor would be. In fact, the flavor of the tomatoes were overshadowed by those tiny little pickled, cooked flower buds! So this antojito is yay for caper lovers, nay for its opponents.


Angela went with the arrachera con salsa molcajete, which was grilled skirt steak with a sauce of grilled tomatoes, tomatillos, green onions, cilantro, and green chiles, garnished with pickled cactus paddle, as her antojito. This was definitely one of my favorites of the night (even if I only had a couple bites from it). The skirt steak was really soft and was cooked to the optimal temperature (in between medium rare and medium). The sauce went well with the steak as well--reminded me of the Italian version of steak pizzaiola. I highly recommend this one!


Krystal had the ensalada de palmitos, which had julienned fresh Hamakua Farms hearts of palm with citrus, radish, and avocado with a tamarind dressing. I had tried the hearts of palm fries over at Yerba Buena Perry and became really intrigued with the texture of the hearts of palm. Subsequent to my visit, I read an article in Saveur about the increasing popularity of using hearts of palm in salads, starter dishes (particularly mentioning the fries at YBP, disclosing a recipe), and main courses, so this was something I was excited to try. The tartness from the citrus and tamarind dressing added some dimension to the crunchiness of the hearts of palm (otherwise, it'd be bland in flavor)--almost making it like pickled slaw. The avocado grounded the citrus flavors and the crunchiness with its added buttery, rich texture--a winning combination. I thought this salad was really refreshing, healthy and seems like a great salad recipe for any party--I want to experiment with trying to replicate this salad for sure.


For my antojito, I ordered the cayo de hacha con pipián de chile pasilla, which were seared scallops with a pasilla chile and pumpkin seed sauce, orange segments, pumpkin seed oil, and toasted pumpkin seeds. The scallops were great--cooked thoroughly through without being overdone--and the toasted pumpkin seeds added a light earthiness to the scallops. My only reservation about this dish was the pumpkin seed sauce was a bit overpowering, almost taking away from the seared flavor of the scallops--I felt it was a bit thick. I didn't add any extra sauce after I cut the scallops into smaller pieces, which remediated the issue for me.


Me, Angela, and Krystal at Oyamel.

Findings: I was really impressed by Oyamel and its ability to execute authentic Mexican cuisine in a modern atmosphere. Many times, I feel like Mexican cuisine is downgraded by American stereotypes where everything is just a mishmosh of ground beef, cheese, sour cream, beans, and tortillas. Those stereotypes, when practiced on a given restaurant's menu, tend to stray away from authenticity and traditional cuisine--i.e., everything always seems drowned in cheese or beans. Chef Andrés really did Mexican cuisine much justice--it is typically hard for me to find a Mexican restaurant that doesn't place overemphasis on cheese (especially for someone like me who is borderline lactose intolerant), but I think Oyamel is my saving grace. The scarcity of cheese on the menu gave me more options to choose from (as opposed to past visits to Mexican restaurants where I would just scan the list for items sans cheese). While there was a dish or two that I wasn't particularly fond of, I still acknowledge the restaurant's diverse (and quite delicious) menu offerings. I regret not trying a margarita, as the restaurant's margarita offerings are part of its signature items--definitely on the list for my next visit (along with seared octopus on the antojito menu). Highly recommended items are the freshly made guacamole and house-made salsa, the mussels (mejillones al tequila con chipotle) for sharing, and the hearts of palm salad (ensalada de palmitos).

Price point: $13.50 for guacamole to share with chips, $9.50 for the ensalada, $8.50-12 for each antojito.

--March 26, 2011

Oyamel
401 7th Street NW
Washington, DC 20004
http://www.oyamel.com

Dinner | El Vez

Marcus and I went to Philly last weekend to visit Dan, one of my best friends from college. Krystal had given me a Starr Restaurant gift card for my birthday back in 2009, basically catalyzing my initial interest in Stephen Starr-designed restaurants when I was trying to decide which restaurant I wanted to try with her. Stephen Starr began his career in Philadelphia in night club design and in the entertainment business. He continued down this path, promoting live entertainment, which lead him to start his own company, The Concert Company, bringing in large-acts including Madonna, U2, and Bruce Springsteen to the Greater Philadelphia area. In 1990, when Electric Factory Concerts bought him out, he used the profit to open several new venues, both clubs and restaurants alike. Five years later, he founded STARR Restaurants, his multi-concept restaurant enterprise, now currently with an existing operating portfolio of 19 restaurants spanning along the East Coast from New York City, Philadelphia, Atlantic City, and Fort Lauderdale.

During March 2009, after reviewing Mr. Starr's restaurant portfolio (and much, much contemplation), I decided on Tangerine, Starr's Morroccan-themed enterprise, now closed. As restaurant-design fanatics, Dan and I had unofficially started what we called our "Starr Restaurant Tour" of NYC, Philly, and beyond. Since then, we've made it to (mostly in Philly): Alma de Cuba, Buddakan (NYC), Pizzeria Stella, Butcher & Singer, Barclay Prime, Continental Midtown, Jones (post to follow this one), Square Burger (still contemplating whether it will be worth blogging about), and related to this post, El Vez.


Marcus, Dan, and I met up with John, Marcus's college friend, for dinner at El Vez this past weekend. Dan and I had long discussed how we wanted this to be our next "Starr stop", so this was something we definitely wanted to hit up during my next (subsequently, this) visit to Philly, so here there we went. We knew Philadelphia Restaurant Week was coming up, so we thought we'd score a prix fixe deal at El Vez, but it turns out it started the next day. Not a loss though--I figured we would've gotten the "watered-down" version of El Vez if we had the Restaurant Week offerings, causing us to not have the full "El Vez" experience, so I'm glad we were able to order a la carte from the regular menu.


Entrance to El Vez.


Inside El Vez and its bar scene--really liking the kitschy use of colors, adding to the authenticity of Mexican cuisine.


More tables inside El Vez.


I've never had a bad experience with the bar/drink menus offered at any of Mr. Starr's restaurants, so ordering a cocktail was a must. I ordered (seen in front) the guava mojito with 10 Cane rum, Cruzan guava rum, pink guava purée, and lime. I asked for no mint, which made me wonder if, at that point, is it was still a mojito sans the mint. Ever since my recent trip to Hawaii this summer, I've been missing the fresh guava juice offered so casually in island-wide supermarkets as well as in select drinks at Hawaiian Jamba Juice stores! Now whenever I see guava on a drink menu, I immediately have to order it (see mimosa flight I mistakenly ordered at Jones in upcoming post).

The guys ordered a pitcher (seen behind my mojito) of the frozen blood orange margarita with silver tequila, triple sec, and fresh blood orange purée. Very strong tequila-wise, but flavor was still intact.


John ordered El Vez enchiladas mixtas, a tasting of all three enchiladas offered on the El Vez menu, with traditional garnishes. From left to right: shrimp enchilada with sweet corn, Oaxacan cheese, and roasted red pepper and almond sauce; classic red chile and chicken enchilada with crema fresca, radish, and cotija cheese; and black bean enchilada with caramelized onions, chihuahua cheese, and smoked yellow tomato sauce. A little too cheesy for my lactose tendencies, but from what John reported, they were delicious--from what I recall, he said he enjoyed the chicken enchilada the most!


Dan and Marcus had the crispy mahi-mahi tacos with red cabbage and chipotle pepper remoulade. It was probably one of the best tacos I've ever had--lightly breaded and fried mahi-mahi filets wrapped in toasted flour tortillas with some avocado and red cabbage, complemented with the remoulade, which was basically a spicy tartar sauce. Great content-tortilla ratio, which makes for a very solid fish taco! Definitely a highly recommended dish for anyone who's planning to make a stop at El Vez!


I went with the Ahí tuna tacos with mango and jicama salsa, cascabel chile and agave vinaigrette, and black bean puree, as they were dairy-free! Very refreshing summer ingredients. However, my only complaint was that there either wasn't enough vinaigrette or flavor in the vinaigrette to bring out the tastes of the tuna and salsa. This would be a better dish if the flavors were slightly stronger. The best part of this dish was probably the physical dish itself--love the unusual design!


We all shared an order of churros (fried-dough pastries or "Spanish doughnuts") with dark and Mexican chocolate sauce. They had a nice crunch and had just the right amount of dusted makara cinnamon. The chocolate sauce resembled the consistency of hot chocolate, which I found to be different from the chocolate sauce I'm used to on ice cream sundaes, and was very raw yet rich in flavor. Great way to end a filling meal.


El Vez's neon sign at dusk.

Findings: The decor and ambience of El Vez, along with most of the other Starr restaurants I've been to, largely contribute to, if not define, the overall dining experience. Mr. Starr has the flair for creating very mesmerizing and provocative restaurant concepts with a particularly meticulous design execution. Sometimes I feel the design overpowers the respective menu offerings in many instances, where the food doesn't even stand a chance. Luckily, the mahi-mahi tacos (as well as drinks we had) were worth making the trip to El Vez! All in all, I would recommend going for tapas sharing, some guacamole (which I would love to try sometime), and pitchers of frozen margaritas!

Price point: $9 for guava mojito, $33 for pitcher of frozen blood orange margaritas; $11-18 for each entrée; $7 for an order of churros (5 total).

--September 18, 2010

El Vez
121 South 13th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
http://www.elvezrestaurant.com/