Dessert | Dominique Ansel Bakery

If there are two things that truly characterize a New Yorker, they would entail an enthusiastic pride for the food in this city as well as some strange, high tolerance for waiting in lines. So it would be no surprise that these said New Yorkers would make crazy early beelines for something like the Cronut, an ingenious creation by Chef Dominique Ansel that is a resulting hybrid of part croissant and part doughnut (thus, Cro-nut). Making its debut barely two weeks ago, the Cronut can be found at Dominique Ansel Bakery (DA Bakery) over in SoHo, where it has been selling out daily before noon.

Derek had gone there the day before we did, and he gave us some insight on the line. He arrived around 7:30-7:45, where he stood in line behind twenty or so people. He got really lucky -- Derek was able to buy one of the last ones (!), as DA Bakery  makes roughly 200 daily. That meant Cronuts were sold out before 8:30 that morning.


With that being said, Marcus and I had to devise a full-proof strategy to ensure we'd score some Cronuts. The bakery opens at 8 AM daily (except at 9 AM on Sundays), so we aimed to be up before 6 AM, leaving our apartment shortly after to get to the bakery around 7-7:15 AM. If there's one thing that can get me out of bed so freaking early in the morning, it's a damn good pastry. We really hoped the recent developing hype was a genuine indicator that they were really just that good.

That morning, we got very lucky, too -- given the good subway karma we got on our ride down to SoHo, we made really good time and got to the bakery a little before 7 AM, where we found only one person in line already. However insane it was, getting there an hour before made us a comfortable second in line. Phew!


This was what the line looked like at 7:45 AM. Around 7:50ish, the line started going around the block on Sullivan Street. It wasn't until 7:30 AM when the line started to grow exponentially. I even had a man, who clearly appeared to be out of town (we noted his wheeled suitcase), stop me on the street, asking me what the line was for. After telling them they were for Cronuts, a pastry that is half croissant and half doughnut, the man appeared to be confused: "Right, but what's the line for?" My response: "Pastries..." His response: "Wait, this line is for pastries?!" Needless to say, his wife just urged him to keep on walking. Hahaha! :P

Growing up near the north of Paris, Chef Ansel began his formal culinary training at 16 years old, an aspiration inspired by his father, Dominique Ansel, Sr. His career began at Fauchon, the "legendary French pastry institution" in Paris. Here, he spent seven years "traveling the world to open shops in places ranging from Egypt to Russia to Kuwait." Chef Ansel put his name on the map in New York City during his six-year tenure as executive pastry chef for Restaurant Daniel, Chef Daniel Boulud's flagship restaurant. After his time at Daniel, he opened his own bakery (i.e., Dominique Ansel Bakery) in November of 2011. In 2013, he was nominated for a James Beard Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef.


Once the doors opened at 8 AM, we were instructed to queue up at the register, following the line back towards the rear of the restaurant where the garden/greenhouse is located.


There they were, in their gloriously fried and buttered beauty. The inaugural flavor were rose Cronuts -- deep-fried layers of croissant dough filled with vanilla ganache then dusted with rose sugar and topped with a rose glaze and candied rose petals. Chef Ansel has said to expect a flavor change in the next couple weeks -- rumors are that the next flavor will be lemon maple in June and dulce de leche in July.


Trays of Cronuts ready to be sold and wrapped up for the patrons who patiently waited in line that morning. Just as a heads up, the policy now limits six Cronuts per patron.


The counter at DA Bakery. Derek actually told me that now one of the pastry chefs here is responsible just for making Cronuts. Crazy!


I felt bad maxing out on six Cronuts each so I just bought six, giving one to Marcus and bringing the rest to share with my colleagues. I'm part of a "Dessert of the Month Club" at my office with a dozen or so colleagues, so I thought this might be a unique treat to bring in for all the members to try. I am now everyone's new best friend -- they all fell in love with the Cronut, so much that they asked me where they could get more! :P Once I told them about the wait time in line, and how early I got there, they appreciated the gesture even more. I may even have some fellow Cronut cronies (yup, I went there LOL) that'll be willing to wait in line the next time I queue up at DA Bakery for some Cronuts!


For me, the Cronut was unlike anything I'd ever had. They were so unbelievably good that you couldn't even think that a pastry could be this good. Jen, one of my colleagues, said a Cronut is like a medley, one comprised of four different desserts -- obviously a croissant (its dough) and a doughnut (it being deep-fried and its shape) but also a zeppole (its consistency and its dusted sugar) and a Napoleon (and its layered creme ganache) -- singing a beautiful melody all at once. I couldn't have put it better myself. The dusted rose sugar and the rose glaze added a little tartness and subtle floral flavor to the lightly doughy and creamy interior of the Cronut. The best part was when we cut right into it -- you could hear the loose, scrumptious crackle and tell how freshly fried it was that morning. You could taste the buttery layers upon each bite, oozing with a delightful helping of cream. At that very moment, you'll know that the madness that brought you in line to the entrance of this bakery was utterly justified and worth every crazy second of it.

Findings: Given the sheer creativity behind this dessert, the Cronut undoubtedly lives up to its hype. It really is all those shades of awesome, amazing, spectacular, fantastic, and magnificent. It's one of those desserts that would be of legends, and you somehow finally stumble upon it and have the fortune of being able to have a bite of it. Imagine all of the pastries that you hold dear to your heart, all melded together in a culinary synecdoche so precisely perfected by Chef Dominique Ansel in his kickass bakery. Yes, it might seem totally irrational to wait in line for an hour just to guarantee the snaggage of some Cronuts, but believe you me, once you finally try one, you will understand the madness, hype, and mania of it all. I'm looking forward to seeing how the upcoming flavors will taste in this new medium of pastry, which means I see lots of queuing up in my future this summer! :P

Tips for first timers: (1) get there early (an hour before opening time should be sufficient) to guarantee your spot in line, (2) bring something to do while you wait in line, and (3) don't lose hope -- remember, the early bird catches the worm!

Price point: $5 for each Cronut.

--May 23, 2013

Dominique Ansel Bakery
189 Spring Street
New York, NY 10012
http://www.dominiqueansel.com

Dinner | Brasserie Beck

On our first night in DC, Marcus and I had dinner at Brasserie Beck, a little recommendation we got from Bon Appetit magazine that noted its vibrant cocktail offerings and many varieties of Trappist beer (Marcus's favorite kind).

Brasserie Beck is a contemporary European style brasserie opened by Robert Wiedmaier in 2007 where he strives to "stay true to his Belgian roots by creating and cooking casual, affordable fair in the 'brasserie'-style of serving all day from lunch to late night." The bar here also "boasts the City's most comprehensive Belgian beer list outside Belgium with nine draught beers and over 100 offered by the bottle." Chef Wiedemaier is a "stickler for detail and highly organized" where "everything is cooked to exacting standards" undoubtedly stemming from his roots as an "old school saucier" as there aren't many chefs these days who take the time for that anymore. Additionally, he "patiently coaxes the very essence from his ingredients by slow reduction of every bit, down to caramelizing the crushed bones to enhance the final dish with intense natural flavor."

Inside Brasserie Beck.

I started out dinner with the Sparkling Pear cocktail, a mix of Hangar One spiced pear vodka, ginger syrup, and sparkling wine. It was refreshingly sweet with a slight snappy bite from the sparkling wine and ginger essence.

Marcus asked our server about which Trappist beers she would recommend based on his affinity for Chimay Blue. She suggested Westmalle Tripel which was really smooth -- I actually preferred it to the Chimay because it's a little bit lighter. What made it even better was how well it paired with the food we had.


Brasserie Beck couldn't call itself a brasserie without having a solid basket of warm bread to go around. The sliced baguette was crusty yet soft at the center, tasting wonderfully with a tiny spread of softened butter.

To start, Marcus and I had a half order of the Penn Cove mussels from Washington State in a classic white wine sauce with roasted garlic (nearly a whole head!), parsley, and cream. The mussels were pretty plump and nicely soaked up the creamy, garlicky sauce in their little crevices. I could've eaten a bucket of these -- they were THAT good.


Marcus wanted to try the shrimp and chorizo with smoked paprika and roasted garlic. The shrimp still had their shells on, so it had some additional intensity of flavor to them, and the smoked chorizo was very concentrated in spice and soaked in a whole lot of roasted garlic, too. Though this dish wasn't my favorite of the evening (while Marcus really enjoyed it), I still thought it was lovely.

Chances are when we see an octopus dish on any given menu, it will get ordered, one way or another. It was not different at Brasserie Beck, where it served grilled octopus with cucumbers, roasted peppers, shaved red onions, and a wild oregano and caper vinaigrette. You know it's a good sign when the octopus meat is so soft that it nearly melts away upon first bite/chew. Chef Wiedmeier certainly coaxed the flavors and true potential of the octopus, and it went beautifully with the surrounding cucumber salad. The vinaigrette had a well-balanced acidity, providing a lovely dressing to the entire dish. We highly recommend this one to be shared.

Given how awesome the cocktail program at Brasserie Beck is, we ordered a second round of drinks -- on the left, Marcus had the Hemingway Daiquiri with white rum, maraschino, fresh lime, and grapefruit juice, while I had the Velvet Blanche with Leblon cachac, Cointreau, Velvet Falernum, and fresh pineapple juice. The Hemingway Daiquiri had a very citrusy yet was refreshing enough where it wasn't sour at all. The Velvet Blanche's main selling point is the freshly squeezed pineapple juice -- even our server said that it makes a huge difference compared to the typical cans of Ocean Spray juice. It had a sense of purity overall (the "Blanche" part of the drink), while the remaining cachac and Cointreau gave the drink its character (the "Velvet"). From the three drinks we sampled that evening, you really can't go wrong with choosing something from the cocktail list that caters to your tastes and preferences.


As my main course, I had the short rib and foie gras tortelloni with hen of the woods mushrooms and madeira sauce. Tortelloni is essentially just a larger version of the popular pasta, tortellini, so the three tortelloni was the perfect portion for a more petite main course. The pasta were filled with piping hot pieces of short rib and little lobes of fatty foie gras that collapsed right onto the palate with a splash of madeira. This really savory dish was further enhanced by the blossoms of maitake, giving it a truly earthier flavor. There were some shavings of cheese which melted right onto the tortelloni that added a subtle creaminess.


Marcus had the grilled salmon with parsnip purée, rapini, and a ruby red grapefruit vinaigrette. Although the salmon was just a little overcooked, the overall composition of this dish was quite good. The citrus gave the salmon a cool lightness to it, and the parsnip purée balanced it well as a main course.


For dessert, Marcus and I shared the Belgian waffles with lemon custard, berries, and cinnamon ice cream. Though I would've preferred a more crunchy waffle, it was still warm and soft with the custard and ice cream.

Findings: Marcus and I fell in love with everything about Brasserie Beck -- the food, the drinks, the ambiance, the service. Perhaps it was because the restaurant was our first "fancy" meal during our visit to DC, but I really think it was because Brasserie Beck seemed to closely herald what I would imagine a genuine Parisian brasserie would be like. We undoubtedly had our rose-tinted glasses on with the romantic notion of not only being in a "new" city like the nation's capital but also being in a well-orchestrated microcosm after the City of Light. We ate to our hearts' content, and I couldn't have thought of one other place I'd rather be than sitting in the tucked away booth that we shared at Brasserie Beck. Despite the casual nature of it being a brasserie, the restaurant has this inexplicable romantic effect on you -- like a place you'd go to fall in love with your partner all over again. Service was top-notch, the drinks well-crafted, and fare curated to satisfying delight. Maybe a second visit here for us won't quite match up to this initial visit because we somehow transcended to a place where the heart of our stomachs realized something divine, but I know Chef Robert Wiedmaier won't disappoint one bit.

Price point: $14 for a half order of mussels, $17-19 for each starter, $26 for each main course.

--April 19, 2013

Brasserie Beck
1101 K Street Northwest
Washington, DC 20005
http://www.beckdc.com

Dinner | The Modern: Dining Room

Last month, Marcus took me out to dinner at The Dining Room at The Modern for my birthday, a spot that has been on my restaurant wishlist for the longest time. I had been to The Bar Room several times before but never to The Dining Room. I was so excited to finally have the opportunity to dine there, especially since it's right next door to the Museum of Modern Art, my favorite art museum in this vibrant city.

The art installation displayed next to the restaurant's entrance was the same as the one that was there when I was at The Modern last (back in April last year). This piece, Untitled (2012), was "inspired by the elaborate window displays that typify MoMA's Fifth Avenue environs" and created by artist Andrea Zittel. In this piece, Untitled (2012), Ms. Zittel "bridges the hyperstylized, over-produced commercial aesthetic of the Fifth Avenue retail display with the bold colors and graphic geometries of Bauhaus, with slight infusions of Southwestern/New Age aesthetic." Untitled also has "several material grids/layers, which in their colors and form refer to the Modern building's façade and provides symmetry with her installed room" on the second floor Contemporary Galleries inside MoMA.

Past the energetic, lively, more casual Bar Room lives the hushed, elegant, and more formal Dining Room. It is awesome to know that you can enjoy two completely different restaurants dwelling in the same space, depending on the mood and time of day -- the abrupt change in ambiance as you walk between rooms is unbelievable. While the Bar Room has bare tables and brighter lighting, the Dining Room has tables draped in white clothes and more subtle lighting.


Bentel & Bentel, the innovators behind the interiors of The Modern, were inspired by the Bauhaus movement and aimed to have design play "a major role in every aspect of the dining experience." The firm selected furniture and tableware from "modernist greats" with a focus on Danish design. Some of the designers are represented in MoMA's architecture and design collection, while a number of the pieces are available for sale at the MoMA Design and Book Store.

The view from the windows of The Dining Room is of the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Sculpture Garden, which is a part of MoMA, housing thirty-one original sculptures, including ones by Rodin, Picasso, Calder, and other great masters. I'm already thinking about coming back here for lunch in the spring! :)

On our dining table was this really cool loop vase by designers Daniel Black and Martin Blum. 

To start, we were given some popcorn in the funkiest of bowls, sprinkled with lemon verbena and Tahitian vanilla. A nice surprise, especially in comparison to the typical variations of cheddar, salt, or butter.

As canapés, the Dining Room served us {1} pickled raspberries and salmon crudo with goat cheese and dill (if I recall correctly), {2}chilled leek soup in a vial, and {4} smoked sea bass with roe and tropical fruit gélee {3} The modernesque "bread basket" included a warm assortment of miniature French baguettes, olive bread, and a cranberry-walnut variety -- all served with cow butter and sea salt. Needless to say that Marcus and I pretty much ate up this whole thing.

To drink, Marcus chose Blood & Sand, a cocktail from the section entitled Modern Interpretations --  a creative concoction of Michter's sour mash whiskey, Heering cherry liqueur, orange, and Bonal Gentiane-Quina. His plan was to start with a cocktail and finish off with some wine later with his main course, but since he loved it so much (such a sucker for all things citrus), he had another instead. A very heavy yet refreshing cocktail.

For dinner that evening, Marcus and I decided it'd be worthwhile to do the four-course prix fixe (as opposed to the eight-course chef's tasting) so we could experience more varieties of dishes showcased by Chef Kreuther.

For my first course, I had the "pralines" of foie gras terrine with mango purée and balsamic vinegar. If I could characterize this dish in a word or two, it would definitely be playful. The nature of foie gras (especially in the form of a terrine) is that it is very savory and rich and often served with a slices of something carby (typically brioche) as to fully enjoy the foie gras without becoming overwhelmed by its intense flavor. The essence of this is captured well in these orbed "pralines" with the nice bonus of the tangy sweep of mango added as a twist, which definitely made this dish stand out against all of the terrines of foie gras I've had in my history as an eater. Though I wish I were given one more bread (I was really piling the "pralines" onto the grilled slices) so I could savor each bite in a more leisurely manner, it was a really well-executed, creative dish.


Marcus had the beet-marinated arctic char with foie gras powder, hazelnut, and blood orange. Just like with the "pralines", the arctic char had all of the elements of a solid tartare but also had all of these unexpected but awesome nuances to it. The combination of earthy, nutty, and sweet from the accompanying ingredients really highlighted the subtleties of the chilled texture of the arctic char. Another winner here!


In contrast to the first course (i.e., served cold), the second ones were warm starters. I opted for the slow-poached farm egg as my second course -- with black winter truffle, salsify, and squid ink spaetzle. A funny aside about this choice, taking me back to my birthday dinner with Marcus last year, which was at SHO Shaun Hergatt (now closed). The second course that I had selected was also a slow-poached egg, a menu item that boasted the inclusion of sea urchin, but to my unfortunate dismay at its arrival that it appeared to be just a tease. There was in fact no sea urchin contained in this course, underscored by the captain who wrote off my confusion as ignorance. Not going to sugar coat it -- that definitely put a damper on the duration of the meal for me. In any case, what makes this story so relevant and uncanny is that when I was trying to figure out what to order (poached foie gras to encore the first course? seared scallops? various savory tarts?), Marcus was convinced that I should order the poached egg. Not sure if it was because he wanted to see if The Modern would compensate for the birthday dinner debacle from last year or if he just knows how much I love poached eggs, but I bit the bullet, thinking to myself, Why the hell not? No way it could result in anything worse than what happened last year.

Either way, it was as if the gastronomy gods were sending me a cosmic gift in the form of culinary karma. When the porcelain plate was laid out before me, there I saw it -- a decently sized lobe or two of sea urchin gleaming in its golden glory. As I heard the captain recite the dish back to me, I nearly had to do a double take as I distinctly heard Santa Barbara sea urchin in the mix. This dish was stunningly perfect -- the poached egg had that delicate consistency from its time over low heat and the beautifully runny yolk that was wonderfully captured with the squid ink spaetzle and toasted breadcrumbs underneath. The uni added an extra je ne sais quoi, that bit of depth that really rounded out this dish.


Marcus was a little more adventurous and had the rabbit-truffle "Alsatian dumplings" with sunchoke and crystal lettuce. While I didn't get to sample any of this (rabbit just doesn't do it for me), Marcus thought the dumplings were excellent -- soft and savory.


I went with the roasted Maine lobster for my main course (a $12 supplement to the prix fixe) which was served with pernod, kohlrabi purée, and jamón emulsion. The lobster was evenly roasted with the butteriest of textures, having the silky texture that you would normally get from a slow-poached method of cooking. The blend of kohlrabi purée and the jamón emulsion was a densely flavorful accompaniment to the lobster -- a very meaty and hearty overlay to the delicately roasted crustacean.


Marcus was the lucky duck who got dibs on the Thomas Farm rack of lamb, {1,2} which was carved and plated tableside by one of the captains (a $10 supplement to the prix fixe). {3} The dish was kept warm until mine was ready to be served to us at the same time.


The rack of lamb was served with olives, fines herbes, bacon fondue, and crisp new onion. The bacon fondue had both of us thoroughly convinced us that we needed to order this, and boy was that hunch right! The lamb was so tender with a hot, juicy, medium rare center, all dressed up so deliciously with the cheesy, oozy bacon sauce drizzled on top. The crispy new onions and multicolored cauliflower florets added an awesome textural interplay with the rest of the ingredients. One of the best dishes we've had this year, the lamb had all of the elements in a fully satisfying main course.


For dessert, I had the black currant vacherin with pistachio ice cream, black currant, and yogurt meringue. The intense tartness from the black currant worked in harmony with the creamy, nutty pistachio ice cream and painted some bold flavors onto the yogurt meringue. This dessert would be great for those who are more partial to fruit-centric desserts (as opposed to chocolate ones).


Marcus had the Manjari chocolate palet with Tahitian vanilla crémeux and salted butter-caramel ice cream. This dessert was very rich in chocolate and caramel, slightly reigned in by the fresh vanilla crémeux.


As a little bonus, they brought out a little birthday dessert -- a lemon meringue of some sort. Although Marcus and I were stuffed beyond belief at this point, we snuck in a few bites of this and loved the cheesecake-like consistency of it.


{1} To top it all off, out came the dessert cart at the end, stocked with several varieties of petit-fours {2} including all kinds of chocolate truffles, cookies, nougats, and biscotti. {3} A lemon sorbet cornet served as an end-of-the-meal palate cleanser.

Findings: All in all, my birthday dinner at The Modern: Dining Room proved to be absolutely wonderful -- everything I could possibly as for in a celebratory dinner, possibly even more. All four courses were seamlessly curated and presented -- Chef Gabriel Kreuther's approach to fine dining marries the classically familiar with a twist of unexpected ingredients and techniques, which somehow results in an exciting blending of flavors that really stand out from anything you've had before. This way, you get to enjoy those favorites you may favor while dining out without redundancy or risk of unoriginality. Marcus and I loved each and every course we chose, down to each and every ingredient, and that's something that's challenging for us to ever say.

The service, décor, and presentation of the restaurant very much reminded me of the experiences I've had at Eleven Madison Park, which should be no surprise as EMP was also under the noteworthy management of star restauranteur Danny Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group before Chef Daniel Humm and Will Guidara took ownership. Only difference now The Modern submits to no gimmicks (as opposed to the most recent menu change at EMP). One aspect I really appreciate here is the commitment to The Modern's adjectival moniker -- the presence of many great works by notable designers scattered throughout on tabletops, serviceware, and furniture. With so many blossoming "modernist cuisines" surfacing out there in the world of gastronomy, The Modern certainly heralds as a tasteful exploration into the avant-garde without straying too far from the composition and medium. Another part of our experience that I really loved was the unassuming and understated yet elegant ambiance created within the Dining Room -- you get the whole fine dining shebang without the restaurant trying too hard to impress.

In summary, I highly recommend The Modern: Dining Room to be a venue of choice for any special occasion dinners -- birthdays, anniversaries, etc. The service team is bound to make your celebration, for whatever it may be, very special. If I had to pick a restaurant that exemplifies what I look for in a solid, higher end dining experience, The Modern is it -- I'm proud to say it's my new all-time favorite restaurant in the city (with Atera as my favorite unconventional dining experience). Marcus and I are already looking forward to returning again in the coming seasons for a different iteration of Chef Kreuther's creative menu -- I have a feeling I'll be back more than twice this year! :P

Thank you again to Marcus, my better half, for taking me to The Modern and making my birthday dinner so special this year -- love you always! :)

Price point: $98 for per person for the four-course prix fixe dinner menu, $12 for each supplemental course choices, $18 for each cocktail, $15-16 for each glass of wine.

--February 23, 2013

The Modern: Dining Room
Museum of Modern Art
9 West 53rd Street
New York, NY 10019
http://www.themodernnyc.com

Brunch | Maison Premiere

Lisa and I had tried going to Maison Premiere, a humble little restaurant tucked away on Bedford Avenue in Williamsburg, for brunch back in August, but the restaurant had an unexpected delayed opening due to a staff meeting that morning, which we couldn't make due to a previously scheduled engagement. We were really bummed out that we couldn't dine here that day (we had some serious oyster cravings on the noggin), but it turned out that Maison Premiere had just welcomed Chef Jason Stafford-Hill, a new chef (resulting in a hefty menu rehaul from just raw bar to something more comprehensive including small dinner plates) and was preparing the restaurant and staff for the new change. So a few Sundays ago, after nearly six months of Sundays gone by, we finally got our crap together and made it to {1,7} brunch at Maison Premiere.
 

Essentially, Maison Premiere prides itself as being an oyster house and cocktail den "reflective of the staple establishments in New York, Paris, and New Orleans." And in no way does this spot deliver anything less than that. {5,6} The walls painted in sort of a period acid-wash is calming and relaxing  for its patrons, and the dark woods of the furniture and banquettes provide a comfortable contrast to the time warping interior design that makes you almost think for a second that you're in a French brasserie, existentially in New York, Paris, and New Orleans all at once. It is a nice escape from the bustling noise and crowds with which the city crawls. {2} There's a covered courtyard located in the rear with lots of gorgeous natural light pouring in, and {4} a bar at the center of the restaurant which houses the raw bar of oysters and crudo as well as all of the restaurant's spirits (including a generous catalog of absinthes).

Chef Stafford-Hill had worked in the well-renowned kitchens of AdourAlain Ducasse, Bobo, Craft, and Gramercy Tavern before taking reign at Maison Premiere, where he has continued the restaurant's focus maritime fare by adding his own "array of warm and cold small plates" to the existing raw bar offerings.


To start brunch off right, I enjoyed a glass of freshly squeezed grapefruit juice.

Just to preface what is about to come, I would just like to say that Lisa and I are crazy. Like really crazy, when it comes to our seafood (more specifically, sushi, sea urchin, and oysters) -- with absolutely no restraint or sugar coating, I can only be like this with her and no one else. Given the list of twenty-four completely different oysters on the menu, there was more variety than we've ever come across with these little slurp-worthy bivalves. Luckily, there was a kind of "oyster omakase" available -- the oyster selection comprised of chef's choice of twelve, i.e., six different varieties with two of each. With one look exchanged between the two of us, we wanted to take this to the next level. Why not order two oyster selections and specify that we wanted twelve varieties with two of each so we could both sample and enjoy simultaneously? We proposed our plan to our waiter, and he was game -- a dozen oysters in variety, twenty-four in total, shared between each of us. Our order came out a grand plateau -- a tiered tower of gleaming shells on generous beds of ice. It was very stunning. Stunning, indeed.

Our waiter explained to us how to match what was on the tower with what had been chosen for us on the list -- ultimately an upward spiral, going clockwise. He also let us have a copy of the list with the ones we had properly marked (so helpful!). I've numbered them in the photograph above for visual guidance. Here's a run-through our little bivalvic adventure at Maison Premiere (* = like; ** = love):


(one) **Cape May Salt from Cape Shore, NJ: We were off to a great start -- absolutely loved this one! A nice size (a little petite) with a perfect sweet finish.
(two) *Cedar Island from Point Judith Pond, RI: Also another hit with us! A little bit of hogwash and a spritz of fresh lemon juice goes a long way -- this wasn't very briny and slurped down easily.
(three) Ninigret Cup from Ninigret Pond, RI: A lot brinier, but still decent.
(four) Moonstone from Point Judith Pond, RI: Very chunky.
(five) *Standish from Barnstable, MA: Thumbs up from Lisa for its subtle peppery taste.
(six) **Malpeque from Malpeque Bay, PEI: LOVED!
(seven) Gooseberry from Malpeque Bay, PEI: A no-go for us -- a lot of fishiness and very briny.
(eight) Kachemak from Kachemak Bay, AK: Nope. Too fishy, and considering how meaty it was, it didn't have much flavor.
(nine) *Fanny Bay from Baynes Sound, BC: Great balance of flavor -- very delicate yet palatable finish.
(ten) Kusshi from Deep Bay, BC: Didn't like this one because it was a little too peppery for our liking.

Once we hit ten, we started counting how many oysters we had left, and confusion struck: there appeared to be six left (i.e., three varieties remaining) when we were supposed to only have four (as we had only ordered two dozen, i.e., twelve varieties with two each). I was concerned that my notes on each oyster were mismatched against the list now that we had thirteen varieties. Thankfully our waiter cleared it up for us (we had in fact been going in the right order), and the raw bar had given us an extra bonus one to enjoy (thanks again, Maison Premiere!). Phew -- that was a close one!

(eleven) **Golden Mantle from Cortes Island, BC: A huge hit!
(twelve) Evening Cove from Vancouver Island, BC: Not bad -- just okay, nothing special.
(thirteen) *Spring Creek from Barnstable, MA: Another delicious one -- always great to end an oyster flight with one that was enjoyable as this!

Included on our tower of oysters were the other raw items we requested for -- the razor clam and the sea urchin. The razor clams were from Long Island and were served with celery root and apple. They were the balancing complements to the raw cubes of razor clam without taking away from its taste and texture but rather highlighting with subtle yet beautiful flavors. Even Chef Stafford-Hill has said that he does "more with garnishes than some chefs would" but also notes that "it's restrained as it's still all about the amazing seafood" that they're getting weekly.


A photograph of the damage incurred after our flight of twelve oysters each. Eek!


 For sea urchin fanatics such as ourselves, it's almost an unspoken rule that we have to order sea urchien or uni if we see it on a menu. It would be blasphemous otherwise. So that's what we did here. Marinated with pineapple, the crudo of sea urchin was from California. While I found the golden lobes of sea urchin to be very buttery and plump (just as it should be!) with a bit of sweet tartness from the pineapple, Lisa found the pineapple marinade to be overwhelming, taking away from the natural flavors and velvety texture from it. Perhaps it's because Lisa is more of a purist when it comes to uni, while I don't mind a little twist every now and then. Guess you win some, and you lose some.

You'd think after having all those oysters and the additional crudo that we'd be full, but not at all for us. Full speed ahead for brunch grub!


I had the smoked salmon rillette with soft-poached eggs, celery root, and capers. Rillettes have a similar preparation of meat as a pâté. The protein (can be meat or fish) is cubed or chopped, salted heavily and cured, and cooked slowly in fat until it is tender enough to be easily shredded and the cooled with just enough fat to form a paste (though for fish, it's not actually cooked in fat but rather blended with fat to form the characteristic paste consistency). It can be used as a spread or served at room temperature, all of which can be stored in crocks for several months.While usually enjoyed with toasted bread, I actually enjoyed this small block of smoked salmon rillette with my two perfectly poached eggs and the fresh and tender rounds of celery root. It was very interesting to experience that I'd normally have as a brunch dish (smoked salmon, eggs, and capers, etc.) in a completely different form. Although the smoked salmon was a little saltier than I would've liked, the eggs helped tone it way down. Plus, look at how pretty it was!


Lisa, of course, had the eggs and black truffle baked in cocotte with Parmesan mousse and mâche. Considering the stark whiteness of the baked eggs, I was expecting the entire thing to be really heavy so much so that it'd be drowning in Parmesan and cream. Although it was quite rich (the winning combination of Parmesan, black truffles, and eggs will do that to you), it was the right amount of creaminess with just a hint of Parmesan, letting the thinly shaved truffles reign over in flavor. The cocotte was also the perfect portion for brunch -- Lisa didn't leave totally stuffed, especially with all of the oysters we swigged down so quickly earlier.


Compliments of the kitchen, we also were served a curried cauliflower salad which was very delightful and fresh.

Findings: Maison Premiere was everything I thought it'd be and more. I love it here, and if it were feasible, I would want to come back every single weekend. The trek to Williamsburg (though it's really not that far, haha) is moot, especially for exploring the two dozen or so varieties of oysters, which is exactly what Lisa and I dubbed as our mission that late morning. The half-shelled bivalves were not only iridescent, but for the most part, distinctly flavorful and unbelievably fresh. Quality is by no means compromised at Maison Premiere -- after all, the restaurant does pride itself with this caliber of seafood. I hear the menu changes frequently, week-to-week, which is just testament to this commitment to sourcing the best ingredients and seafood available. Chef Jared Stafford-Hill has worked in his magic into the heart of Maison Premiere's menu, and you can taste it in the well-crafted brunch dishes and the other crudo offerings -- we were nearly blown away with the razor clam and me with the sea urchin.

Cannot wait to come back to sample a bunch of new varieties of oysters and crudo in the spring. I know it'll be more crowded when the weather warms up, but either way, I'm definitely willing to show up as soon as it opens at 11 on the weekends so I can happily slurp down all the oysters without having to wait too long. But then again, the wait would be well worth it.

Price point: $30 for each oyster selection (chef's choice of twelve), $13-14 for each crudo, $4 for each glass of fresh-squeezed juice, $14-18 for each egg dish.

--January 13, 2013

Maison Premiere
298 Bedford Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11211
http://www.maisonpremiere.com

Book Signing | Fall 2012 cookbook signings

One of my favorite things about the fall each year is the bounty of new cookbooks released right before the holiday season (I suppose it makes for higher sales from the abundance of gift giving). I had the pleasure of meeting three renowned culinary individuals this season.

{1,4} First, I was able to meet Nancy Singleton Hachisu, the woman behind {2} Japanese Farm Food. She lives with her Japanese farmer husband, Tadaaki, and her three children on an organic farm in rural Japan, all of which certainly provided the inspiration for the stories and recipes in her latest cookbook. She and her husband grow and prepare all of their ingredients{3}As part of the demonstration/signing/Q&A at Williams-Sonoma, she cooked a Japanese eggplant dish (i.e., fried eggplant with sweet miso) along with the fluffiest Japanese rice (her book guides you how to shop for the best grains and how to cook it to its optimal state. {5} She also had some barley/buckwheat tea served cold.

Some highlights of her discussion with her audience:

• Japanese cuisine has historically been dominated with a male approach to cooking. 
• Her mother-in-law used to make udon noodles everyday for her husband, by hand!
• Tadaaki learned everything he knows about cooking from his grandmother growing up. 
• Tomatoes + soy sauce = umami explosion!
• Rarely any sugar is used in her recipes.
• Her life on the farm is much, much different life than the ones led by residents of urban Tokyo.
• There is an obsessiveness with seasonality with her lifestyle, and even as such, it is actually very feasible to live this way.
• Important ingredients: Ottawa soy sauce and brown rice vinegar (unlike most rice vinegars found in supermarkets which aren't as good).

She was so easy to talk to, and I cannot wait to delve into her recipes and learn more about traditional, rustic Japanese cooking. I hope our paths cross again, and I can attend a dinner with her as the guest chef!


My signed copy of Japanese Farm Food.

Next up was meeting Chef Thomas Keller and Chef Sebastien Rouxel for the Bouchon Bakery Cookbook. I cannot believe this was my fifth time meeting Chef Keller!


{1,4} This little book signing posed some great significance in my life. It was about three years ago, at this very Williams-Sonoma at Columbus Circle, that I had met Linda, my awesome friend and culinary soul sister, whilst waiting in line at another one of Chef Keller's cookbook signings, only it was for  Ad Hoc at Home. Waiting in line once again together with Linda brought about some major déjà vu, for sure -- what a way to celebrate our three-year friend-iversary! {2} And of course, even though arriving decently early, there was a good line ahead of us, but we were quite content with {3} the array of delectable desserts to sample. {5} Plus we even got to tell Chef Keller our story about how we met and act all starstruck in our photo with him and Chef Rouxel!


And in true Chef Keller fashion, the inscriptions for the Bouchon Bakery Cookbook were It's all about memories and It's all about childhood.


{1} In that very same week, Linda and I met up again so we could have {2} Chef Yotam Ottolenghi and Chef Sami Tamimi sign our copies of {3} their latest cookbook, Jerusalem. Not too shabby for being multi-chef groupies! {4} While Chef Ottolenghi was discussing the premise behind Jersalem which is not necessarily a complete anthology of Israeli cuisine but essentially a hodgepodge of all of their favorite recipes while growing up and living in Israel, we had the pleasure of sampling {5} some roasted butternut squash with red onion, tahini, and za'atar. It was so great that I was inspired to make this very dish for my family's holiday dinner.

My signed copy of Jerusalem!

Findings: These three cookbooks are so very different from each other and a lot different than many of the existing cookbooks that are in my collection, so I am very pleased to be adding these to my growing shelves of recipes (especially personally signed copies!). Hopefully I'll find some time to read my way through the beautiful photographs and stories in each one very soon -- I cannot wait!

Price point: $35-50 for each cookbook.

--October 17, 2012; October 26, 2012; October 26, 2012

Williams-Sonoma
Time Warner Center
10 Columbus Circle, Suite 114
New York, NY 10019
http://www.williams-sonoma.com/recipe/tip/book-signing-events.html

Williams-Sonoma
121 East 59th Street
New York, NY 10022
http://www.williams-sonoma.com/recipe/tip/book-signing-events.html

Japanese Farm Food
Nancy Singleton Hachisu
available here on Amazon.com

Bouchon Bakery Cookbook
Thomas Keller & Sebastien Rouxel
available here on Amazon.com

Jerusalem: A Cookbook
Yotam Ottolenghi & Sami Tamimi
available here on Amazon.com